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Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram/README.md
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@ -211,7 +211,10 @@ So all the connection on the ERCF Easy Board will send data to the rapberry pi v
1. Klicky_Probe connected to the "XES" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the "STOP_7" endstop connector of the Octopus Pro board (on the LDO Kit they refer to this as the "Z Probe" line).
2. Built-in "(AH3364Q-P-B) Hall effect sensor" for the LGX_ERCF part connected to the "ABL" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the "Probe" connector on the Octopus Pro board with the "Probe Voltage Select" header's Jumper {on the Octopus Pro board} set on the pins that select 24VDC (or the Board's Vᵢₙ. Also on the Octopus Pro board ensure the Jumper on the "Probe Type Select" header is REMOVED so that PNP type is used for the "Probe" connector. The datasheet on the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" states the following:
2. Built-in "(AH3364Q-P-B) Hall effect sensor" for the LGX_ERCF part connected to the "ABL" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the "Probe" connector on the Octopus Pro board with the "Probe Voltage Select" header's Jumper {on the Octopus Pro board} set on the pins that select 24VDC (or the Board's Vᵢₙ).
* Also on the Octopus Pro board ensure the Jumper on the "Probe Type Select" header is **REMOVED** so that PNP type is used for the "Probe" connector. The datasheet on the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" states the following:
```
The single open drain output can be switched on with South pole of
sufficient strength. When the magnetic flux density (B) perpendicular
@ -220,13 +223,32 @@ switched on (pulled low) and is held on until magnetic flux density B is
lower than the release point (BRP). The output remains switched off
for North pole fields to or no magnetic fields.
```
This statement indicates to me that the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" works like a "PNP" type Probe. For information on how "PNP" and "NPN" see https://automation-insights.blog/2018/02/14/an-easy-way-to-remember-pnp-and-npn-sensor-wiring/.
3. Neopixels with an in-line 30 Ohms resistor attached to the first Neopixel which is then attached to the other two Neopixels in the Stealthburner fan assembly get connected to the "FS" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board which then goes to the "DRIVER_7" stepper motor socket of the Octopus Pro board.
3. Neopixels should have an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the RGB header's data output pin and the input to the first NeoPixel. The resistor should be at the end of the wire closest to the NeoPixel(s), not the Octopus Pro board.
Neopixels with an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor attached to the first Neopixel which is then attached to the other two Neopixels in the Stealthburner fan assembly get connected to the "FS" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board which then goes to the ~~"DRIVER_7" stepper motor socket~~ RGB header of the Octopus Pro board.
From reading about Neopixels today and Adafruit's best-practices in using NeoPixels (https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/best-practices), I quote Adafruit:
```
Try to minimize the distance between the controller board and first pixel, so the signal is clear.
A meter or two is usually no problem. Much longer and things can become unreliable. Individual NeoPixels can act as repeaters for long runs.
```
On a Voron 2.4 the distance from the motherboard to the toolhead is over 2 meters which is above Adafruit's recommendation.
So to accomodate this limitation one could place a single NeoPiexel half way down the wiring harness to the toolhead so that it acts as a repeater.
On second thought I want to have more than one stip of NeoPixels. I will have the individual NeoPixels for the Stealthburner but I plan on using NeoPixel stips on the sids panel and up in the top of the heated champber. I also plan on putting a string underneath the printer (lights in the electronics compartment and in the litter box compartment). Since each Neopixel has its own address I can use one data line for all these lights.
So with all those Neopixels strings I will have plenty of NeoPixel repeaters in my Voron 2.4 printer.
If for your build, you only want to attach the "Voron Stealthburner" Neopixel LEDs, than I would buy a couple extra single Neopixels LEDs and place them in the wiring harness at which ever location you want to act as a repeater for the Neopixel's on the toolhead (one extra single NeoPixel place half way down the wiring harness will do the trick). This way the data line will be boasted and its signal level will not degrade to the point that it can not be correctly interputed by the next Neopixels.
The "FS" connector comming from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board has two wires that need to be connected up on the Octopus Pro board (5V and Data line for the Neopixel LED which will be using a 5 Volt logic level {not a 3.3 Volt logic level})
But first we must properly configure the "DRIVER_7" stepper motor socket. Ensure that "DRIVER_7" mode Jumpers are set for UART mode if the rest of the stepper motor driver sockets are configure for SPI mode. So if you are using the TMC5160_PRO drivers then "DRIVER_0", "DRIVER_1", "DRIVER_2", "DRIVER_3", "DRIVER_4", "DRIVER_5", and "DRIVER_6" will all be configured for SPI mode.
~~But first we must properly configure the "DRIVER_7" stepper motor socket. Ensure that "DRIVER_7" mode Jumpers are set for UART mode if the rest of the stepper motor driver sockets are configure for SPI mode. So if you are using the TMC5160_PRO drivers then "DRIVER_0", "DRIVER_1", "DRIVER_2", "DRIVER_3", "DRIVER_4", "DRIVER_5", and "DRIVER_6" will all be configured for SPI mode.
So set the "DRIVER_7" for UART mode. By configuring the opposite mode for the empty driver socket you are ensuring that the empty driver socket will not interfear with the communication bus of the other 7 driver sockets.
@ -237,9 +259,22 @@ If you follow the "DRIVER7_CS" line you will see it leads you to a device labele
![DRIVER7_Shiftleveler_to_5Vlogic](../images/BTT_OctopusPro_schmatic_DRIVER7_CS_Shiftleveler.jpg)
This "TXS0104EPWR" shifts the DRIVER7_CS signal line from 3.3VDC logic level to 5VDC logic level. Which is what we want for the LEDs data line for the stealthburner fan assembly.
You might be asking why do you not just use the Octopus Pro RGB header? Well you could. But since the Stealthburner uses Neopixels LEDs, I decided to use Neopixels through out the QUEEN build. Remember that is why I bought in a second 5V PSU. So to control the other lights with the Octopus Pro board I will need more than one Neopixel Data line. I just choose to use the DRIVER7_CS line for the stealthburner LEDs because when I am ready to do the other Neopixels I will use the RGB header or the DRIVER7_STEP or the DRIVER7_DIR lines.
You might be asking why do you not just use the Octopus Pro RGB header? Well you could. But since the Stealthburner uses Neopixels LEDs, I decided to use Neopixels through out the QUEEN build. Remember that is why I bought in a second 5V PSU. So to control the other lights with the Octopus Pro board I will need more than one Neopixel Data line. I just choose to use the DRIVER7_CS line for the stealthburner LEDs because when I am ready to do the other Neopixels I will use the RGB header or the DRIVER7_STEP or the DRIVER7_DIR lines.~~
Since I have learned more about NeoPixels I will be following [Adafruit's recommendations on how to hook up Neopixels](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/best-practices).
Like I said earlier, The "FS" connector comming from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board has two wires that need to be connected up on the Octopus Pro board (5V and Data line for the Neopixel LED). As I alread stated, I will be using a in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the RGB header's data output pin and the input to the first NeoPixel. Please put the resistor in-line with the data line before trying to hook up the NeoPixels. If you do not you could permentaly damage the first NeoPixel and have to rewire the Stealthburner to fix the NeoPixel.
Since I am using an independent external power supply to power my NeoPixel strips (I am not using the Octopus Pro to power the LEDs) I will be placing large capacitor (500–1000 µF at 6.3 Volts or higher) across the + and – 5VDC terminals of the Meanwell RD-50A PSU. This is what Adafruit remcommends doing, I qoute them below:
```
Before connecting a NeoPixel strip to ANY source of power, a large capacitor (500–1000 µF at 6.3 Volts or higher) across the + and – terminals provides a small power reservoir for abrupt changes in brightness that the power source might not otherwise handle — a common source of NeoPixel “glitching.” The capacitor also buffers sudden changes in the current drawn by the strip.
```
~~Please remember to hook up the 5VDC line from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the 5V line on the DRIVER7 red socket. If you do not want to use a Dupont connector for the 5VDC line then use a JST connector and attach it to "STOP_3" connector of Octopus Pro board.~~
Please remember to hook up the 5VDC line from the Meanwell RD-50A PSU to the first NeoPixel 5V DC pad and use "Common V- Ground" (the common ground reference between all the PSU in the build) to the GND pad on the first NeoPixel.
Please remember to hook up the 5VDC line from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the 5V line on the DRIVER7 red socket. If you do not want to use a Dupont connector for the 5VDC line then use a JST connector and attach it to "STOP_3" connector of Octopus Pro board.
4. Now we need to connect the extruder motor up to the Octopus Pro. The LGX extruder motor will connected to the "E-STEP" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board which then connects to "MOTOR6" connector of the Octopus Pro board.