Update README

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JoAnn Manges
2022-01-17 03:49:55 -05:00
parent 0d68dbb8b7
commit a1fcc5900e
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.vscode/ltex.dictionary.en-US.txt vendored Normal file
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stl
Neopixel
Voron
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
GadgetAngel
LitterBox
Runout
SexBolt
Z-Endstop
ERCF
Toolhead
deepfriedhero
Arkeet
Misumi
Edwardyeeks
Klicky
KlickyShare
Bluedragonx
StefanRaatz
Whoppingpochard
Badnoob
Stealthburner
Sexbolt
Decontaminator
Hernsl
Tayto-chip
Leandromarceddu
PowerSkirt
StvPtrsn
MarcPot
Alanho
Smaseface
Revnull
driftology
Paneldue
Endstop
Microfit
midspan
Richardjm
Padok
Prusaprinters
sexbolt
Nemgrea
Geoffreyyoung
LoCoCNC
Danowar
Boingomw
Wago
wago
Jeoje
Molex
MLX
BladeScraper-Designs
Empusas
AlexanderT-Moss
AlchemyEngine
Skirt-Microfit-Inserts
LDO
UHP-xxx
UHP
NeoPixels
Meanwell
PINs
Klipper
HV
PSUs
typ
Ette
ParallelDiagram
xlsm
BIGTREETECH
CanaKit
EVO
MiniTool
Partion
partion
Un-Zip
img
Balena
raspberrypi
KIAUH
MoonRacker
Octoprint
KlipperScreen
winscp
Winscp
klipper
BLTouch
bootlaoder
Oc
Fysetc
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Fluidd

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.vscode/ltex.disabledRules.en-US.txt vendored Normal file
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COMMA_PARENTHESIS_WHITESPACE
MORFOLOGIK_RULE_EN_US

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{"rule":"MORFOLOGIK_RULE_EN_US","sentence":"^\\Qbluedragonx's \"BlueDragonX's Klicky Mods\"(using built-in Klicky Probe to X-Axis Carriage Frame): https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident/Usermods/bluedragonx;\\E$"}
{"rule":"MORFOLOGIK_RULE_EN_US","sentence":"^\\QOc_geek's More Robust Klicky Probe Mod; Beefier column and revised holes for zip tie (was def too small); reduced height 1mm (was excess) Chanfered bottom in all direction (also sides) on the probe carriage Microswitch body exposed by a tiny bit.\\E$"}
{"rule":"MORFOLOGIK_RULE_EN_US","sentence":"^\\QSee also Th3fallen's website for the LGX_PCB_Mount_Heatset.stl file;\\E$"}
{"rule":"MORFOLOGIK_RULE_EN_US","sentence":"^\\QRevnull's \"Articulating arm\" from his \"rpi_7in_display_mount mod\";\\E$"}
{"rule":"MORFOLOGIK_RULE_EN_US","sentence":"^\\QRamalama2's \"AB_Plug_Microfit mod\"; or AB_Plug_JST-XHmod; or you could also use the Voron Design Team's \"Tie-down the AB motors cables to the Z-Beam Mod\";\\E$"}
{"rule":"ENGLISH_WORD_REPEAT_BEGINNING_RULE","sentence":"^\\QRamalama2's \"Panel_Clips\"; I will use the midspan clips for sides and top; - (use 6 mm version - 3 mm panel and 3mm of foam tape);\\E$"}
{"rule":"MORFOLOGIK_RULE_EN_US","sentence":"^\\QOV1A's \"WAGO+221+DIN+rail+holder mod\" from Thiniverse.com; Used to mount the WAGO nuts on the DIN rails.\\E$"}
{"rule":"SPURIOUS_APOSTROPHE","sentence":"^\\QThe following will be needed if you add the kinematic kit to your Voron 2.4 Build:\nModified Purge Bucket;\nbuy a longer sexbolt for Item #10 and\nbuy some Openbuild's Angled brackets or you could just use blind joints;\\E$"}
{"rule":"SPURIOUS_APOSTROPHE","sentence":"^\\QThe following will be needed if you add the kinematic kit to your Voron 2.4 Build:\nModified Purge Bucket;\nbuy a longer sexbolt for Item #10 and\nbuy some Openbuild's Angled brackets, or you could just use blind joints;\\E$"}
{"rule":"MORFOLOGIK_RULE_EN_US","sentence":"^\\QDerpimus' Euclide_Probe's \"OmronRotatedXRailDock_v2\";\\E$"}
{"rule":"UPPERCASE_SENTENCE_START","sentence":"^\\Qwithout an aluminum plate, so 80%] : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/UHP-200-48/7707242\\E$"}
{"rule":"UPPERCASE_SENTENCE_START","sentence":"^\\Qwithout an aluminum plate, so 80%]: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/UHP-200-24/7707239\\E$"}
{"rule":"EN_UNPAIRED_BRACKETS","sentence":"^\\QBut for the QUEEN Build the total \"INPUT AC Current (typ.)\" value is 11.7 Amps, which is above the rated 10 Amps for this BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button.\\E$"}
{"rule":"EN_UNPAIRED_BRACKETS","sentence":"^\\QThe Octopus V1.1 pin-out has PC5 on the EXP2 connector but on the Octopus Pro V1.0 this pin on the EXP2 connector is now \"Not Connected (NC)\".\\E$"}
{"rule":"EN_UNPAIRED_BRACKETS","sentence":"^\\QRamalama2's \"Panel_Clips\"; I will use the midspan clips for sides and top; - (use 6 mm version - 3 mm panel and 3 mm of foam tape);\\E$"}
{"rule":"ENGLISH_WORD_REPEAT_BEGINNING_RULE","sentence":"^\\QRamalama2's \"Panel_Clips\"; I will use the midspan clips for sides and top; - (use 6 mm version - 3 mm panel and 3 mm of foam tape);\\E$"}
{"rule":"CD_NN","sentence":"^\\QI have bought a ERCF v1.1 moster kit - 6 chart version because I will someday print out the parts and put it together to do multi-material printing.\\E$"}
{"rule":"EN_UNPAIRED_BRACKETS","sentence":"^\\QThe \"GND\" line of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board will connect to the \"Voron 2.4 AC Wiring Diagram\"'s \"Common V- Ground\" reference (the point where you attach all the V- terminal of each PSU you have in the Build).\\E$"}
{"rule":"EN_UNPAIRED_BRACKETS","sentence":"^\\QSo when you looked from the front of the printer you would ask yourself, \"what is that black plastic in the middle of the back of the printer?\".\\E$"}
{"rule":"NON_STANDARD_WORD","sentence":"^\\QThe \"Litter Box\" mod is a place to store all you good s..t......LOL\\E$"}

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@ -14,17 +14,17 @@ $ git clone https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log.git
Press Enter to create your local clone.
Now open Window explorer to the location of local clone.
```
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google Drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
### What is the Litter Box Mod?
Think of the "Litter Box" as the poor man's DOOM mod. Basically, I split the electronics up into two sections. AC electronics go in the "bottom case" on the Voron 2.4 250mm³ and the standard electronics boards go in the "Litter Box" mod. Instead of putting the "standard electronics" on the TOP of the printer (as the DOOM MOD does), I put the boards on the BACK of the Voron 2.4 250mm³ build. I did this so I would **not** have to buy another wiring harness. I can use the wiring harnesses that are pre-made. For the DOOM Mod the pre-made wiring harness will not work because it will not be long enough, but the "Litter Box" mod allows you to use the pre-made wiring harness. I also designed the "Litter Box" mod so that one can not see the "Litter Box" mod is attached to the printer unless you are viewing the Voron from the side.
Think of the "Litter Box" as the poor man's DOOM mod. Basically, I split the electronics up into two sections. AC electronics go in the "bottom case" on the Voron 2.4 250 mm³ and the standard electronics boards go in the "Litter Box" mod. Instead of putting the "standard electronics" on the TOP of the printer (as the DOOM MOD does), I put the boards on the BACK of the Voron 2.4 250 mm³ build. I did this, so I would **not** have to buy another wiring harness. I can use the wiring harnesses that are pre-made. For the DOOM Mod the pre-made wiring harness will not work because it will not be long enough, but the "Litter Box" mod allows you to use the pre-made wiring harness. I also designed the "Litter Box" mod so that one can not see the "Litter Box" mod is attached to the printer unless you are viewing the Voron from the side.
I also designed the "Litter Box" Mod so that I did not have to cut out a lot of different holes in the Coraplast top/bottom panels or the two Coraplast side panels. I also designed an "Extended" skirt, so that the back skirt is not hidden underneath the mod, instead the back skirt has been moved out. This then required me to design an extended Bottom panel to cover the AC socket plugs. To hold the extended Bottom panel in place, I had to design two clips interfaces blocks so that I could reused the bottom magnetic clips from [Hernsl's "Bottom_panel_mag_clip Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hernsl/bottom_panel_mag_clip).
I also designed the "Litter Box" Mod so that I did not have to cut out a lot of different holes in the Coraplast top/bottom panels or the two Coraplast side panels. Furthermore, I also designed an "Extended" skirt, so that the back skirt is not hidden underneath the mod, instead the back skirt has been moved out. This then required me to design an extended Bottom panel to cover the AC socket plugs. To hold the extended Bottom panel in place, I had to design two clips interfaces blocks so that I could reuse the bottom magnetic clips from [Hernsl's "Bottom_panel_mag_clip Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hernsl/bottom_panel_mag_clip).
Here is a video Tour:
@ -36,7 +36,7 @@ Here is a video Tour:
Since I knew I needed more space I started to search by looking at the CAD models of all the different Voron 3D printer models. I also knew that I would need to learn Fusion 360, if I wanted to design this mod.
I watched some Youtube videos from [Lars Christensen](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVtzuj7_F9g), and bravely went down this road. After a couple of days my hands started to hurt so I look into buying a [space mouse](https://3dconnexion.com/uk/product/spacemouse-wireless/). A space mouse allows you to turn the Fusion 360 model like you are holding the part in your own hands.
I watched some YouTube videos from [Lars Christensen](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVtzuj7_F9g), and bravely went down this road. After a couple of days my hands started to hurt, so I look into buying a [space mouse](https://3dconnexion.com/uk/product/spacemouse-wireless/). A space mouse allows you to turn the Fusion 360 model like you are holding the part in your own hands.
Before I bought the space mouse, I converted by free license for Fusion 360 into a subscription license. After doing this I uploaded all the Voron printer models and start to look around.
@ -54,21 +54,21 @@ Since I did not want to drill a lot of holes in my Coraplast panels for the top/
I first tackled the Corner Support brackets. I knew I wanted to design for different Back Panel thicknesses. My mod has three versions (3 mm, 4 mm and 6 mm).
The Corner Support Brackets from the Voron 1.8 attach to a vertical extursion from the inside side of the frame. The litter box has to hang off the back so I do not have access to the inside of the extrusion unless I cut holes in the Voron 2.4 Back panel.
The Corner Support Brackets from the Voron 1.8 attach to a vertical extursion from the inside side of the frame. The litter box has to hang off the back, so I do not have access to the inside of the extrusion unless I cut holes in the Voron 2.4 Back panel.
I decide that I did not want to cut holes in the Voron 2.4 Back Panel. So I added to the DIN mounting bracket. The 4 Corner Support Brackets are integrated into the DIN Mounting Brackets. I designed to use three (3) M2x20 Socket Head Screws (which have counterbore holes for the M2 screw head) and I designed to use M2 heat set inserts to secure the DIN mount bracket to the Corner Support Bracket.
The M2 heat set inserts will be placed inside the 4 Coroner Support Brackets. The M2 heat set insets you will need to buy can be purchased from [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232858343.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.dcd44c4dya58ZN) - the recommended vendor from the Voron 2.4 sourcing guide. Buy the "M2 X D4.0 X L5.0" version of the M2 heat set inserts. I suppose you can use any M2 heat set insert as long as it is not wider than 4 mm and longer the 5 mm.
The M2x20 Socket Head Screws can be purchased anywhere. I bought from [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/3366) but you can easily use ones from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4MG7TC).
The M2x20 Socket Head Screws can be purchased anywhere. I bought from [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/3366), but you can easily use ones from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4MG7TC).
I could not use M3 screw because the holes were too big for the design I started off with. I first created a DIN bracket that had a slot built into the bracket to allow the Coraplast panel to slide into the slot. But after examining the bracket design, I opted to remove the slot to make the DIN bracket stronger. It is more important that the DIN mounts are solid and can hold the electronics board, PSU and DIN rail to the back panel.
I could not use M3 screw because the holes were too big for the design I started off with. Furthermore, I first created a DIN bracket that had a slot built into the bracket to allow the Coraplast panel to slide into the slot. But after examining the bracket design, I opted to remove the slot to make the DIN bracket stronger. It is more important that the DIN mounts are solid and can hold the electronics board, PSU and DIN rail to the back panel.
But since I started out with a slotted DIN mount, I designed using M2 screws because the M3 screws would not fit. I suppose if someone wanted to mod my mod you could create an M3 version but M2x20 screws are not hard to come by.
The next issue in my design arose when I noticed that the Side Panel would stick out on either side of the extrusion. So when you looked from the front of the printer you would ask yourself, "what is that black plastic in the middle of the back of the printer?". I decided to offset the Corner Support brackets so that the Litter Box could not be seen from the front of the Voron 2.4.
The next issue to arise was the back skirt. It was sitting below the litter box but under the litter box. I wanted the back skirt to be flush with the back panel of the litter box. So the problem was how to extend the skirt? I remebered that I read some talk about the Voron 2.4 300mm³ printer's sit heavily on the back two feet of the printer. So my next concern was would the printer tilt over with the Litter Box on the back? To solve the extended skirt and the possibility of tilting I decided to create two dummy Z drive/feet combos (basically creating two new feet). These dummy Z drive feet look like the real Z drives but they are just made out of 3D printed plastic. This way you can match the feet up if you want. Since I am using the [Edwardyeeks' "V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod) and [Spaghetti-Bolognese's "Z Driver System Mods"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Spaghetti-Bolognese/Z_drive_motor_mount) combo on my printer, I choose to just stick with the Voron 2.4 original Z drive feet. This way if you choose not to do the Z driver mods the feet will all match. By adding two feet and using the Z Drive block the "side extended skirt" is created.
The next issue to arise was the back skirt. It was sitting below the litter box but under the litter box. I wanted the back skirt to be flush with the back panel of the litter box. So the problem was how to extend the skirt? I remebered that I read some talk about the Voron 2.4 300 mm³ printer's sit heavily on the back two feet of the printer. So my next concern was would the printer tilt over with the Litter Box on the back? To solve the extended skirt and the possibility of tilting I decided to create two dummy Z drive/feet combos (basically creating two new feet). These dummy Z drive feet look like the real Z drives, but they are just made out of 3D printed plastic. This way you can match the feet up if you want. Since I am using the [Edwardyeeks' "V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod) and [Spaghetti-Bolognese's "Z Driver System Mods"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Spaghetti-Bolognese/Z_drive_motor_mount) combo on my printer, I choose to just stick with the Voron 2.4 original Z drive feet. This way if you choose not to do the Z driver mods the feet will all match. By adding two feet and using the Z Drive block the "side extended skirt" is created.
So now I needed to design a way to mount the back skirt (the same one you would normally use) to the bottom of the Litter Box. Since the Litter Box uses only 2020 extrusions that was really not a problem.
@ -84,7 +84,7 @@ So for my 250mm³ build I will need the following 2020 extrusions:
The Coraplast panels are 4 mm thick (or what ever material you want to use, I plan on carbon fiber panels after I test out the Coraplast panels) dimensions can be calculated as follows:
The height of the Top/Bottom Panels, the height of the Right/Left Side Panels, the height of the Front Panel and the width of the Right/Left Side Panels will stay the same for all build sizes. The only dimension that will change is the distance between your two back vertical extrusions which will only effect the Top/Bottom width and the Front Panel width:
The height of the Top/Bottom Panels, the height of the Right/Left Side Panels, the height of the Front Panel and the width of the Right/Left Side Panels will stay the same for all build sizes. The only dimension that will change is the distance between your two back vertical extrusions which will only affect the Top/Bottom width and the Front Panel width:
Top/Bottom Coraplast panels' dimensions for the Litter Box Mod:
@ -101,7 +101,7 @@ Front Coraplast Panel's dimensions for Litter Box Mod:
Height = 242 mm
Width = (frame width - 55.5)
There are cut outs that need to be made for the front panel, I need to do the drawing for this panel. I will publish it here when I get it done. I will do it in .dxf format and .pdf format. I will even create a .svg file for it.
There are cut-outs that need to be made for the front panel, I need to do the drawing for this panel. I will publish it here when I get it done. I will do it in .dxf format and .pdf format. Furthermore, I will even create a .svg file for it.
So for **my 250 mm³ QUEEN Build** I will use the following dimensions for my Coraplast panels:
@ -126,13 +126,13 @@ Back to what I was talking about, how did I mount the back skirt to the litter b
So my mod fixes the Litter Box to be mounted at the bottom of the two back 2020 extrusions and my 3D model has it placed at that location.
Since I decided on my mount location, I design the inteface bar (which is a 3D printed part). In the 3D model you see the word's VORON 2.4 V2.1234, I use the Interface Bar as a way to register your Voron serial number when you get one. So this part has lettering which will be printed with "VORON 2.4" and "V2.1234". You can reprint this part and remount it after you get your serial number.
Since I decided on my mount location, I design the inteface bar (which is a 3D-printed part). In the 3D model you see the word's VORON 2.4 V2.1234, I use the Interface Bar as a way to register your Voron serial number when you get one. So this part has lettering which will be printed with "VORON 2.4" and "V2.1234". You can reprint this part and remount it after you get your serial number.
The Interface Bar is just a block of plastic with a slotted hole, that allows the screw to pass through to the Litter Box Bottom 2020 extrusion. You will need to use longer M3 screw to mount your back skirt pieces but you will not have to reprint your back skirt peices. You just need to print the Interface Bar A/B and the Foot Interface A/B pieces.
The Interface Bar is just a block of plastic with a slotted hole, that allows the screw to pass through to the Litter Box Bottom 2020 extrusion. You will need to use longer M3 screw to mount your back skirt pieces, but you will not have to reprint your back skirt peices. You just need to print the Interface Bar A/B and the Foot Interface A/B pieces.
What is the Foot Interface A/B piece. The Foot Interface is how the two dummy feet get mounted to the Bottom 2020 extrusion of the Voron 2.4 printer. The Foot Interface A/B comes in three sizes to accomdate three different Voron 2.4 Back Panel thickness sizes (3 mm, 4 mm, and 6 mm).
Since the Litter Box does not cover the totallity of the Back Panel, I wanted the ability to move the electronics boards up or down from the DIN rail to help with wire routing. I ended up designing a sliding mounting system for the electronics. Basically a nut and bolt are used to the two sliding haves together and I have designed these mounts to accomodate as many of the Voron DIN clips as I could (Trident DIN clips and Voron 2.4 DIN clips)
Since the Litter Box does not cover the totallity of the Back Panel, I wanted the ability to move the electronics boards up or down from the DIN rail to help with wire routing. I ended up designing a sliding mounting system for the electronics. Basically a nut and bolt are used to the two sliding haves together, and I have designed these mounts to accomodate as many of the Voron DIN clips as I could (Trident DIN clips and Voron 2.4 DIN clips)
These new sliding mounts are listed under the Litter Box electronics mod. I also designed some stablizing arms for the UHP PSU models. The Stablizing arm is not bolted down to the PSU but stops the PSU from shifing horizontally.
@ -145,9 +145,9 @@ Again, to download the PDF just click on the filename ["Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB_
## A Picture of the "Litter Box" mod for QUEEN:
The "Litter Box" mod is a place to store all you good shit......LOL
The "Litter Box" mod is a place to store all you good s..t......LOL
The name is a wink to RCF (a.k.a RussianCatFood).
The name is a wink to RCF (a.k.a. RussianCatFood).
I also have posted two videos which give you a roatating view of the QUEEN 3D model. This is the 3D model I used
to devleop the Litter Box.

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@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
# This repositoy uses LFS extension
# This repository uses LFS extension
```
I use Git for Windows with VScode to manage this repository. I also use Git LFS extensions for all the files.
@ -14,14 +14,14 @@ $ git clone https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log.git
Press Enter to create your local clone.
Now open Window explorer to the location of local clone.
```
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google Drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
# Electronics Case Wiring Diagram for QUEEN (my Voron 2.4 build):
This repository contains JPG and PDF files for the electronics case for QUEEN. I am presently working on the "Fuctional Wiring Diagram" for my QUEEN Build. I am concurrently working on the "Real World" Electronics Case Diagram which will show you the actual routing of all the wires I will use for my QUEEN Build.
This repository contains JPG and PDF files for the electronics case for QUEEN. I am presently working on the "Functional Wiring Diagram" for my QUEEN Build. I am concurrently working on the "Real World" Electronics Case Diagram which will show you the actual routing of all the wires I will use for my QUEEN Build.
---
@ -37,13 +37,13 @@ I have spent 3 months creating the 3D model of my QUEEN Voron 2.4 250mm³ build.
I have used the CAD models from each MOD (listed below) and incorporated the respective MOD's CAD model into my QUEEN Fusion 360 model. After working in Fusion 360 for the past 3 months I have become aware of a couple of things:
1. When exporting sub-Assemblies from Fusion 360 in .STEP format the only sub-assemblies that get put into the STEP file are the sub-assemblies that are visable at the time the exported STEP file is created. So when you use STEP files expect all the sub-assemblies to be visable when you first open up the STEP file. You will have to turn off the options that you do not want to see after you upload the STEP file to Fusion 360 (or your CAD software).
1. When exporting sub-Assemblies from Fusion 360 in .STEP format the only sub-assemblies that get put into the STEP file are the sub-assemblies that are visible at the time the exported STEP file is created. So when you use STEP files expect all the sub-assemblies to be visible when you first open up the STEP file. You will have to turn off the options that you do not want to see after you upload the STEP file to Fusion 360 (or your CAD software).
2. If a MOD did not have a Fusion 360 CAD model, I used the .stl files from the MOD and used Fusion 360 to convert the .stl files into parametric bodies.
3. If you upload .f3d sub-Assembly file and all sub-assembly options are turn on, then please just turn off the sub-assemblies you do not want to see. Sometimes, I exported the .STEP files at the same time I was creating the .f3d files, so I might have left options turned on so I could save the .STEP file.
3. If you upload .f3d sub-Assembly file and all sub-assembly options are turn on, then please just turn off the sub-assemblies you do not want to see. Sometimes, I exported the .STEP files at the same time I was creating the .f3d files, so I might have left options turned on, so I could save the .STEP file.
4. I have noticed that if one uses the "save a copy as ..." option that parts will loose their postion (x,y,z). So to create the sub-assemblies I did a "copy" to the clip board and then placed the clip board contents into a new file and saved that file.
4. I have noticed that if one uses the "save a copy as ..." option that parts will lose their position (x,y,z). So to create the sub-assemblies I did a "copy" to the clip board and then placed the clip board contents into a new file and saved that file.
GadgetAngel's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 CAD model (.f3d) and (.STEP) files:
@ -86,9 +86,9 @@ The full model for QUEEN has a fusion 360 (.f3d) file and STEP file. The STEP f
## .STL list of files needed for each MOD:
I will be publishing a folder of .stl files for all the printed parts I am using for my QUEEN build, including the ones from my PIF parts ~~(comming soon)~~.
I will be publishing a folder of .stl files for all the printed parts I am using for my QUEEN build, including the ones from my PIF parts ~~(coming soon)~~.
My intent is to list the files needed in each Sub-Assembly and indicate which ".stl files" need to be replaced or exchanged for a MODed ".stl" file. I think an [EXCEL spreadsheet would help with this task and can be found here](../The_.STL_Files/Excel_Spreadsheet_.stl_files).
My intent is to list the files needed in each Sub-Assembly and indicate which ".stl files" need to be replaced or exchanged for a Modded ".stl" file. I think an [EXCEL spreadsheet would help with this task and can be found here](../The_.STL_Files/Excel_Spreadsheet_.stl_files).
The [".STL" files for my QUEEN Voron 2.4 build can be found here](../The_.STL_Files/Copy_of_.STLs_forQUEEN_As_Built_will-not-be-updated)
@ -97,65 +97,65 @@ The [".STL" files for my QUEEN Voron 2.4 build can be found here](../The_.STL_Fi
## Lesson Learned while doing the "Electronics Case Wiring Diagram" for QUEEN:
I finished the AC wiring diagram for the QUEEN build today. From doing the wiring diagram
I determined that I needed to make some adjustements in my power supplies and do more work with the 3D model layout.
I determined that I needed to make some adjustments in my power supplies and do more work with the 3D model layout.
I have decided to split the Wiring Diagram for my Voron 2.4 printer up into two wiring diagrams: "AC Electrical Wiring Diagram" and "DC Electrical Wiring Diagram".
The "DC Electrical Wiring Diagram" will show how to set up the Octopus Pro board and all the DC wiring not included in the "Wiring Harness Diagram" like LEDs, fans, DC light switches and so on. I will work on this one next.
The first draft of the "AC Electrical Wiring Diagram" is done and is now being published. I still might need to make changes to it once I start working on the DC wiring diagram. Please remember this whole repository is a "Work in progress" because I still have not finished building my Voron 2.4 printer. I have all the building material but I want to document how I will be interconnecting all the modules before I start putting things together.
The first draft of the "AC Electrical Wiring Diagram" is done and is now being published. I still might need to make changes to it once I start working on the DC wiring diagram. Please remember this whole repository is a "Work in progress" because I still have not finished building my Voron 2.4 printer. I have all the building material, but I want to document how I will be interconnecting all the modules before I start putting things together.
### Requirements for my Voron 2.4 printer build
One of the requirements for my Voron 2.4 printer is that I want to be able to reboot the Voron 2.4 printer without requiring a reboot of Mainsail or Fluidd (the Raspberry Pi) along with the printer's motherboard and power supplies. To accomplish this goal, I have decided that my Raspberry Pi will always remain powererd up. It can be shut down through the BIG RED mushroom button but typically it will always be turned on while the Voron 2.4 printer may not be turned on.
One of the requirements for my Voron 2.4 printer is that I want to be able to reboot the Voron 2.4 printer without requiring a reboot of Mainsail or Fluidd (the Raspberry Pi) along with the printer's motherboard and power supplies. To accomplish this goal, I have decided that my Raspberry Pi will always remain powered up. It can be shut down through the BIG RED mushroom button, but typically it will always be turned on while the Voron 2.4 printer may not be turned on.
I also want to use some extra features with my Voron 2.4 printer, like, filament runout sensor, filament jam detection, automtic shutdown after print job has finished, and resume 3D print after power failure.
I also want to use some extra features with my Voron 2.4 printer, like, filament runout sensor, filament jam detection, automatic shutdown after print job has finished, and resume 3D print after power failure.
The filament runout sensor and filament jam detection will be looked at when I do the DC wiring diagram for the electronic case (which I will be working on next). The "automatic shutdown after print job has finished" and "resume 3D print after power failure" features needed to be looked at while doing the AC electrical wiring.
These two features have been incorporated into the AC electrical wiring diagram. I am using BTT's relay V1.2 to perform the "automatic shutdown after print finishes" feature ~~and I am using BTT's UPS module to perform the "resume 3D print after power failure" feature.~~ I also added in another set of relays to allow the Raspberry Pi to remotely shutdown the Voron 2.4 printer (along with the PSU, except for the PSU that supplies 5VDC power for the Raspberry Pi). I also have a mechanical Hour-counter and Engergy Meter incorporated in the front and side skirt of my Voron 2.4 printer that I need to control. The Energy Meter will always be on when the Voron 2.4 printer is powered up (it is located on the right-hand side of my printer). The mechanical Hour-Counter will only run when the Voron 2.4 printer is actually producing a 3D part and is located on the front skirt. This way I can see the number of actual hours of print time. This Hour-Counter runs through a relay so I can control when it is turned on.
These two features have been incorporated into the AC electrical wiring diagram. I am using BTT's relay V1.2 to perform the "automatic shutdown after print finishes" feature~~, and I am using BTT's UPS module to perform the "resume 3D print after power failure" feature.~~ I also added in another set of relays to allow the Raspberry Pi to remotely shut down the Voron 2.4 printer (along with the PSU, except for the PSU that supplies 5VDC power for the Raspberry Pi). I also have a mechanical Hour-counter and Engergy Meter incorporated in the front and side skirt of my Voron 2.4 printer that I need to control. The Energy Meter will always be on when the Voron 2.4 printer is powered up (it is located on the right-hand side of my printer). The mechanical Hour-Counter will only run when the Voron 2.4 printer is actually producing a 3D part and is located on the front skirt. This way I can see the number of actual hours of print time. This Hour-Counter runs through a relay, so I can control when it is turned on.
The BTT's V1.2 are relays that are normally opened (NO) so when I added my additional relay I needed to ensure that I could configure it to be NO or NC. The relay that controls the Hour-counter is NO type of relay.
I also want the capability to use momentary switches on the left-hand side and right-hand side of my printer to power up or down the Voron 2.4. These momentary switches are active low and are hardwired directly into the relays so that software is not needed to control them. I call these my "hardware reboot switches". These switches will only reboot the Voron 2.4 (not the Raspberry Pi). The switch that is on the back of the Voron 2.4 will reboot both the Raspberry Pi and the Voron 2.4 printer. I will also mount a "mini Red push button (momentary switch)" to one of the keyholes on the Voron 2.4 skirt which allows me to reboot the Voron 2.4 printer via the BTT's V1.2 relay modules.
I also want the capability to use momentary switches on the left-hand side and right-hand side of my printer to power up or down the Voron 2.4. These momentary switches are active low and are hardwired directly into the relays so that software is not needed to control them. I call these "hardware reboot switches". These switches will only reboot the Voron 2.4 (not the Raspberry Pi). The switch that is on the back of the Voron 2.4 will reboot both the Raspberry Pi and the Voron 2.4 printer. I will also mount a "mini Red push button (momentary switch)" to one of the keyholes on the Voron 2.4 skirt which allows me to reboot the Voron 2.4 printer via the BTT's V1.2 relay modules.
Since I want the Raspberry Pi to be "alway ON", I need to buy another 5V power supply. I decided to remove the UHP-200-12 PSU and replace that unit with a PSU that is two PSUs in one unit. I bought a Meanwell RD-50A PSU which has a 5VDC PSU (@ 6 Amps) and 12VDC PSU (@ 2Amps) in one metal box. Since the Stealthburner has been realeased as a beta, I have added it to my Voron 2.4 printer and ended up switching all my LEDs from 12VDC to 5VDC. I will be using Adafruit Neopixels LEDs only and they only work at 5 Volts. So I down sized my 12V supply and doubled my 5V power supply.
Since I want the Raspberry Pi to be "alway ON", I need to buy another 5V power supply. I decided to remove the UHP-200-12 PSU and replace that unit with a PSU that is two PSUs in one unit. I bought a Meanwell RD-50A PSU which has a 5VDC PSU (@ 6 Amps) and 12VDC PSU (@ 2Amps) in one metal box. Since the Stealthburner has been realeased as a beta, I have added it to my Voron 2.4 printer and ended up switching all my LEDs from 12VDC to 5VDC. I will be using Adafruit Neopixels LEDs only, and they only work at 5 Volts. So I downsized my 12V supply and doubled my 5V power supply.
The Meanwell RS-25-5 will be the power supply that always remains on and is attached to the external UPS [APC 1500VA UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector, BX1500M Power Supply](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM) along with Voron 2.4 printer. I am using a "BIG RED" button or mushroom button between the APC UPS unit and the power input (filtered power inlet) for the Voron 2.4 printer. I have added this for saftey reasons. The mushroom box assembly will have a long power cord so I can place it where ever I want. I also have smoke detector located above the 3D printer.
The Meanwell RS-25-5 will be the power supply that always remains on and is attached to the external UPS [APC 1500VA UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector, BX1500M Power Supply](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM) along with Voron 2.4 printer. I am using a "BIG RED" button or mushroom button between the APC UPS unit and the power input (filtered power inlet) for the Voron 2.4 printer. I have added this for saftey reasons. The mushroom box assembly will have a long power cord, so I can place it where ever I want. I also have smoke detector located above the 3D printer.
In my AC wiring diagram you will see things like "grounding straps" and "Ferrite core filters". These are present to help reduce cross talk.
Logically I have 5 power supplies, two 5V PSU, one 12V PSU, one 24V PSU and one 48V PSU. One PSU combines two of these into one PSU (Meanwell RD-50A combines a 5V PSU and 12V PSU into one PSU).
In the AC electrical wiring diagram some of the lines are thicker than the others. I did this on purpose so that you will automatically recognize the AC lines from the DC lines. The AC lines are thicker and are distributed using UK2.5 terminal blocks (or Dinkle DK4N termainal blocks). The DC lines are thin and use WAGO nuts for distrubution blocks.
In the AC electrical wiring diagram some lines are thicker than the others. I did this on purpose so that you will automatically recognize the AC lines from the DC lines. The AC lines are thicker and are distributed using UK2.5 terminal blocks (or Dinkle DK4N termainal blocks). The DC lines are thin and use WAGO nuts for distrubution blocks.
Since the Raspberry Pi is a 3.3V logic device, I use [3.6V Zener Diodes](https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-34-Values-Zener-Assorted/dp/B07BTWBXJ3) for overvoltage protection on the Raspberry Pi's GPIO lines when using a 5VDC power supply for the 4-channel relay module to activate the relay's coils. Even tho my AC wiring diagram shows I will be using a 4-channel relay module, I might only install a one channel relay module. The resons for going to one channel is that I do not need a 4-channel relay module and I have a one channel relay module sitting in a drawer.
Below you will find the JPG and the PDF files for the "Voron 2.4 AC Electrical Wiring Diagram".
After finding a [schematic diagram of the BTT relay V1.2 from a russian website](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/BTT%20Relay%20V1.2%20Schematic.pdf) I have become aware that I can control the PSUs with the Raspberry Pi via the BTT Relay V1.2 modules without the use of a second relay module. Therefore the secondary relay module will only control the mechanical Hour-Counter. I have updated my AC Electrical Wiring Diagram to reflect this change.
After finding a [schematic diagram of the BTT relay V1.2 from a russian website](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/BTT%20Relay%20V1.2%20Schematic.pdf) I have become aware that I can control the PSUs with the Raspberry Pi via the BTT Relay V1.2 modules without the use of a second relay module. Therefore, the secondary relay module will only control the mechanical Hour-Counter. I have updated my AC Electrical Wiring Diagram to reflect this change.
After a discussion in the Voron discord channel with other more experienced Voron users the following question arose: "Does the Voron 2.4 printer even have the capacity to resume print? If the Gantry sags at all it won't, since you wouldn't be able to perform QGL with a buildplate already occupied.". Due to this fact using the BTT UPS modules is now out since I will not be able to get the flying gantery back to where it needs to be to resume a print. I will be removing the "resume after power failure" as a requirement for my Voron 2.4 printer.
Also another Voron user found an error in my first AC wiring diagram. I forgot to tie all my V- (DC negative voltage) terminals together to establish a common voltage reference between different power supplies. The revised AC wiring diagram now has the V- terminals all tied together.
Also, another Voron user found an error in my first AC wiring diagram. I forgot to tie all my V- (DC negative voltage) terminals together to establish a common voltage reference between different power supplies. The revised AC wiring diagram now has the V- terminals all tied together.
1/9/2022:
Ok, folks I have some explaining to do. But be aware that now I will be discussing **TWO** different Voron 2.4 printer builds in this build log.
I was watching the build of the Voron 2.4 LDO kit on [@Steve Builds](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8VsL6u5PiOgy6n4I4b4Ufw) and have been very very impressed with the LDO kit. So after discussng my options with my husband we decided that the best route forward for me is to buy the LDO kit and build the LDO 300mm³ build. I still planning on building the 250mm³ QUEEN build but to build QUEEN I need a work horse 3D printer that prints ABS really well.
I was watching the build of the Voron 2.4 LDO kit on [@Steve Builds](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8VsL6u5PiOgy6n4I4b4Ufw) and have been very impressed with the LDO kit. So after discussng my options with my husband we decided that the best route forward for me is to buy the LDO kit and build the LDO 300 mm³ build. I'm still planning on building the 250 mm³ QUEEN build but to build QUEEN I need a work horse 3D printer that prints ABS really well.
Now you are thinking that is nuts. Not really! I added up the cost of just getting the 3D printed parts done by a commerical vendor and the cost is over $5,000. So the cost of the LDO kit is only $1,350. So instead of paying someone else to print the QUEEN ABS parts I will get a new Voron 2.4 LDO 300 mm³ Build which I will call "Voron_LDO" and print the ABS parts for QUEEN myself on the Voron_LDO printer. This way I get more experience with the printer profiles. I will also be able to print the modified parts and test them out.
I will also have another printer that I can modifiy once the QUEEN build is finished.
I like to think of this rationalization as a way to boot strap my Voron printer experience. Wink Wink.
Furthermore, I like to think of this rationalization as a way to bootstrap my Voron printer experience. Wink Wink.
1/11/2022:
I am still working on the DC wiring Diagram for the QUEEN build. Here is what I am trying to figure out right now.
I have bought a [ERCF v1.1 moster kit - 6 chart version](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/enraged-rabbit-carrot-feeder-v1-1-monster-kit?variant=41260783534249) because I will someday print out the parts and but it together to do multi-material printing.
I have bought a [ERCF v1.1 moster kit - 6 chart version](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/enraged-rabbit-carrot-feeder-v1-1-monster-kit?variant=41260783534249) because I will someday print out the parts and put it together to do multi-material printing.
When planning the QUEEN build I want to ensure that the parts I use for the X-Axis and the toolhead will accomodate the ERCF v1.1. The ERCF adds on additional equipment that the "ERCF Easy Board" will handle. The ["ERCF Easy Board"](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/ercf-ez-board) can be setup in Klipper as an additional MCU and that way the board's PIN definitions can be used.
@ -174,7 +174,7 @@ On the [ERCF Easy Board, page 94, I see](http://nbviewer.jupyter.org/github/Ett
4. "Selector Endstop";
5. "Encoder";
Besides the ERCF prep for the QUEEN build, I also want to prep QUEEN for the Voron Stealthburner fan assembly. To use the LEDs on the Stealthburner we need a Data PIN on the Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board along with GND and 5VDC to power the Neopixel LEDs. The [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) will work only if you are running stock endstop pod, and you need to run [Klicky_Probe](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe) (which we are). Therefore @Hartk1213 says that the following, hookup should be used:
Besides the ERCF prep for the QUEEN build, I also want to prep QUEEN for the Voron Stealthburner fan assembly. To use the LEDs on the Stealthburner we need a Data PIN on the Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board along with GND and 5VDC to power the Neopixel LEDs. The [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) will work only if you are running stock endstop pod, and you need to run [Klicky_Probe](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe) (which we are). Therefore, @Hartk1213 says that the following, hookup should be used:
```
Klicky --- XES header
@ -189,7 +189,7 @@ I see now, the "Filament Sensor" is the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor that is
I plan on using the Bondtech LGX extruder instead of the clockwork1 (CW1) extruder. So I think from typing this all out I now understand how the connections all work.
I need to ensure that for the QUEEN build the correct LGX part is being used. It has to be the 3D part from the ERCF projocet so I can install the [AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AH3364Q.pdf) and run it at 24VDC.
I need to ensure that for the QUEEN build the correct LGX part is being used. It has to be the 3D part from the ERCF projocet, so I can install the [AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AH3364Q.pdf) and run it at 24VDC.
1. Then I can use the "ABL Header" on the [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) to connect up the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" which is built-in to the [LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor.stl](https://github.com/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject/blob/main/Filament_Sensor/Stls/LGX/LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor.stl) 3D printed part.
@ -199,11 +199,11 @@ BTW, I renamed the file to "LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor_fromERCFproj.
3. Connect the Neopixel LEDs for the Stealthburner fan assembly to [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board's](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) "FS" connector.
and
And
4. I connect "Servo", "Selector Motor", "Gear Motor", "Selector Endstop" and "Encoder", not to the Octopus Pro board, but to the ["ERCF Easy Board"](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/ercf-ez-board) which uses a "Seeeduino XIAO" processor which talks to the Raspberry Pi 4B board via USB connection (USB-C on Seeeduino XIAO to USB-2.0 on the raspberry pi).
4. I connect "Servo", "Selector Motor", "Gear Motor", "Selector Endstop" and "Encoder", not to the Octopus Pro board, but to the ["ERCF Easy Board"](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/ercf-ez-board) which uses a "Seeeduino XIAO" processor which talks to the Raspberry Pi 4B board via USB connection (USB-C on Seeeduino XIAO to USB-2.0 on the Raspberry Pi).
The Seeeduino XIAO microcontroller and sensors are powered through the USB C cable from the RaspberryPi USB port while the stepper motor drivers are powered by the ERCF Easy Board's PSU (12/24V) on-board connector.
The Seeeduino XIAO microcontroller and sensors are powered through the USB-C cable from the RaspberryPi USB port while the stepper motor drivers are powered by the ERCF Easy Board's PSU (12/24V) on-board connector.
So all the connection on the ERCF Easy Board will send data to the rapberry pi via USB.
@ -213,7 +213,7 @@ So all the connection on the ERCF Easy Board will send data to the rapberry pi v
2. Built-in "(AH3364Q-P-B) Hall effect sensor" for the LGX_ERCF part connected to the "ABL" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the "Probe" connector on the Octopus Pro board with the "Probe Voltage Select" header's Jumper {on the Octopus Pro board} set on the pins that select 24VDC (or the Board's Vᵢₙ).
* Also on the Octopus Pro board ensure the Jumper on the "Probe Type Select" header is **REMOVED** so that PNP type is used for the "Probe" connector. The datasheet on the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" states the following:
* Also, on the Octopus Pro board ensure the Jumper on the "Probe Type Select" header is **REMOVED** so that PNP type is used for the "Probe" connector. The datasheet on the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" states the following:
```
The single open drain output can be switched on with South pole of
@ -240,15 +240,15 @@ A meter or two is usually no problem. Much longer and things can become unreliab
On a Voron 2.4 the distance from the motherboard to the toolhead is over 2 meters which is above Adafruit's recommendation.
So to accomodate this limitation one could place a single NeoPiexel halfway down the wiring harness to the toolhead so that it acts as a repeater.
On second thought, I want to have more than one strip of NeoPixels. I will have the individual NeoPixels for the Stealthburner but I plan on using NeoPixel stips on the sids panel and up in the top of the heated chamber. I also plan on putting a string underneath the printer (lights in the electronics compartment and in the litter box compartment). Since each Neopixel has its own address, I can use one data line for all these lights.
On second thought, I want to have more than one strip of NeoPixels. I will have the individual NeoPixels for the Stealthburner, but I plan on using NeoPixel stips on the sids panel and up in the top of the heated chamber. I also plan on putting a string underneath the printer (lights in the electronics compartment and in the litter box compartment). Since each Neopixel has its own address, I can use one data line for all these lights.
So with all these Neopixels strings I will have plenty of NeoPixel repeaters in my Voron 2.4 printer QUEEN build. That will not be the case for my Voron 2.4 LDO build.
If for your build, you only want to attach the "Voron Stealthburner" Neopixel LEDs, than I would buy a couple extra single Neopixels LEDs and place them in the wiring harness at which ever location you want to act as a repeater for the Neopixel's on the toolhead (one extra single NeoPixel placed half way down the wiring harness will do the trick). This way the data line will be boasted and its signal level will not degrade so that the next Neopixel can correctly interpret the previous Neopixel's data transmission.
If for your build, you only want to attach the "Voron Stealthburner" Neopixel LEDs, than I would buy a couple extra single Neopixels LEDs and place them in the wiring harness at which ever location you want to act as a repeater for the Neopixel's on the toolhead (one extra single NeoPixel placed halfway down the wiring harness will do the trick). This way the data line will be boasted, and its signal level will not degrade so that the next Neopixel can correctly interpret the previous Neopixel's data transmission.
The "FS" connector comming from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board has one wire that needs to be connected up on the Octopus Pro board (Data line for the Neopixel LED which will be using a 5 Volt logic level {not a 3.3 Volt logic level})
~~But first we must properly configure the "DRIVER_7" stepper motor socket. Ensure that "DRIVER_7" mode Jumpers are set for UART mode if the rest of the stepper motor driver sockets are configure for SPI mode. So if you are using the TMC5160_PRO drivers then "DRIVER_0", "DRIVER_1", "DRIVER_2", "DRIVER_3", "DRIVER_4", "DRIVER_5", and "DRIVER_6" will all be configured for SPI mode.~~
~~But first we must properly configure the "DRIVER_7" stepper motor socket. Ensure that "DRIVER_7" mode Jumpers are set for UART mode if the rest of the stepper motor driver sockets are configured for SPI mode. So if you are using the TMC5160_PRO drivers then "DRIVER_0", "DRIVER_1", "DRIVER_2", "DRIVER_3", "DRIVER_4", "DRIVER_5", and "DRIVER_6" will all be configured for SPI mode.~~
~~So set the "DRIVER_7" for UART mode. By configuring the opposite mode for the empty driver socket you are ensuring that the empty driver socket will not interfear with the communication bus of the other 7 driver sockets.~~
@ -265,7 +265,7 @@ The Picture below went with the crossed out text, so please ignore it.
Since I have learned more about NeoPixels I will be following [Adafruit's recommendations on how to hook up Neopixels](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/best-practices).
Like I said earlier, The "FS" connector comming from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board has one wire that needs to be connected up to the Octopus Pro board (the NeoPixel's Data line). As I already stated, I will be using a in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the RGB header's data output pin and the input to the first NeoPixel.
Like I said earlier, The "FS" connector comming from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board has one wire that needs to be connected up to the Octopus Pro board (the NeoPixel's Data line). As I already stated, I will be using an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the RGB header's data output pin and the input to the first NeoPixel.
**Please**, **Please**, put the resistor in-line with the first NeoPixel on the data line before trying to hook up power to the NeoPixels. If you do not, you could permentaly damage the first NeoPixel and have to rewire the Stealthburner to fix the NeoPixel.
@ -281,11 +281,11 @@ Please remember to hook up the 5VDC line from the Meanwell RD-50A PSU to the fir
Note: You only need **one** 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the RGB header's data output pin and the first NeoPixel. So in my case since I have many NeoPixel LEDs I will do this only to the first NeoPixel that will be located in the bottom electronics case for the QUEEN build.
But for my Voron_LDO build, I will only be placing the Neopixels on the "Voron Stealthburner". In this case I will probably power the NeoPixels from the Octopus board. I will buy four (4) individual NeoPixel LEDs for my Voron Stealthburner (in fact I already have them). I will buy two extra in case I screw up on the soldering and ripe a pad off of one of the NeoPixels boards. I will place one of the "extra" Neopixels half way down my wiring harness to act as a repeater for the Stealthburner's first Neopixel. So I will place an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the (Octopus board) RGB header's data output pin and the "extra" Neopixel. Remember this in-line resitor must be placed closer to the Neopixel then the RBG header. Since I am **NOT using an independent PSU to power the NeoPixels for the my Voron_LDO build**, I **do not need to use** the large capacitor (5001000 µF at 6.3 Volts or higher) across the + and terminals of my PSU.
But for my Voron_LDO build, I will only be placing the Neopixels on the "Voron Stealthburner". In this case I will probably power the NeoPixels from the Octopus board. I will buy four (4) individual NeoPixel LEDs for my Voron Stealthburner (in fact I already have them). I will buy two extra in case I screw up on the soldering and ripe a pad off of one of the NeoPixels boards. Furthermore, I will place one of the "extra" Neopixels halfway down my wiring harness to act as a repeater for the Stealthburner's first Neopixel. So I will place an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the (Octopus board) RGB header's data output pin and the "extra" Neopixel. Remember this in-line resitor must be placed closer to the Neopixel than the RBG header. Since I am **NOT using an independent PSU to power the NeoPixels for my Voron_LDO build**, I **do not need to use** the large capacitor (5001000 µF at 6.3 Volts or higher) across the + and terminals of my PSU.
I hope this procedure is clear. Again, please place an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the (Octopus board) RGB header's data output pin and the first Neopixel board. You will not damage anything by doing this and in fact you could save the Neopixel board from being damaged.
4. Now we need to connect the extruder motor up to the Octopus Pro. The LGX extruder motor will connected to the "E-STEP" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board which then connects to "MOTOR6" connector of the Octopus Pro board.
4. Now we need to connect the extruder motor up to the Octopus Pro. The LGX extruder motor will connect to the "E-STEP" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board which then connects to "MOTOR6" connector of the Octopus Pro board.
5. The "CT" or "Chamber Thermistor" line of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board will connect to the "T1" on the Octopus Pro board.
@ -307,11 +307,11 @@ So, thank you for letting me type and figure out how this all connects up. That
Next we need to connect up all the motors and endstops:
13. The "X" line of the [Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop PCB board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-2-4-xy-microswitch-endstop-pcb) will connect to to the "STOP_0" on the Octopus Pro board.
13. The "X" line of the [Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop PCB board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-2-4-xy-microswitch-endstop-pcb) will connect to the "STOP_0" on the Octopus Pro board.
14. The "Y" line of the [Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop PCB board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-2-4-xy-microswitch-endstop-pcb) will connect to to the "STOP_1" on the Octopus Pro board.
14. The "Y" line of the [Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop PCB board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-2-4-xy-microswitch-endstop-pcb) will connect to the "STOP_1" on the Octopus Pro board.
15. The "HE1" line of the [Z Endstop PCB for Voron v2.4 board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/z-endstop-pcb-for-voron-v2-4) (on the LDO Kit they refer to this as the "Nozzle Probe" line) will connect to to the "STOP_2" on the Octopus Pro board.
15. The "HE1" line of the [Z Endstop PCB for Voron v2.4 board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/z-endstop-pcb-for-voron-v2-4) (on the LDO Kit they refer to this as the "Nozzle Probe" line) will connect to the "STOP_2" on the Octopus Pro board.
Motor cables: Please use a LED light to ensure that the pairs of wires for each motor coil are lying next to each other in the motor cable's connector. If the two adjacent wires do not turn on the LED light when you turn the shaft of the motor then you will need to find the appropriate pair of wires and ensure that they are adjacent to each other in the JST connector. What do I mean by two adjacent wires? Well the JST connector has 4 pins. Pick a starting point, call that "PIN 1" then the next pin adjacent to it in the JST connector is "PIN 2". Place an LED across "PIN 1" and "PIN 2". Turn the stepper motor shaft to see if the LED turns on while you turning the motor's shaft. If the LED turns on then "PIN 1" and "PIN 2" are a coil pair. Now check "PIN 3" and "PIN 4", just to ensure that the second motor coil is working properly. Place the LED across "PIN 3" and "PIN 4", does the LED turn on? Now that you have determined which pairs of wires make up the motor's coils. Place the coil pairs as follows: PIN1 and PIN2 are a coil pair, PIN3 and PIN4 are a coil pair.
@ -332,13 +332,13 @@ Motor cables: Please use a LED light to ensure that the pairs of wires for each
23. "Filter/Exhaust Fan for the Nevermore Filter" get connected into "FAN3" connector on the Octopus Pro board.
Now the rest of the hook up is to take care of additional items I have added to this build via Mods: like the "FANS mod"; additional Neopixel LED lights for my side edge panel lighting; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Bottom Electronics case; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Litter Box mod; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Left and right side of TOP panel; additional Neopixel LED lights for the front and back side of the TOP panel; multiple SPST switches to control the Neopixels Lights; additional thermistor wires that are attached the cable chain; ADXL35 connections to the Raspberry pi; filament runout sensor; PT1000 thermistor wires or a PT100 4-wire sensor cable; endocope wires; a spare Hotend Thermistor wires; ethernet keystone connection; Fans for the Litter Box Mod; USB 2.0 & USB 3.0 Keystone connection; and the BTT's TFTpi50 screen hookup to the Raspberry pi. I believe that takes care of all the extra items.
Now the rest of the hook-up is to take care of additional items I have added to this build via Mods: like the "FANS mod"; additional Neopixel LED lights for my side edge panel lighting; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Bottom Electronics case; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Litter Box mod; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Left and right side of TOP panel; additional Neopixel LED lights for the front and back side of the TOP panel; multiple SPST switches to control the Neopixels Lights; additional thermistor wires that are attached the cable chain; ADXL35 connections to the Raspberry Pi; filament runout sensor; PT1000 thermistor wires or a PT100 4-wire sensor cable; endocope wires; a spare Hotend Thermistor wires; ethernet keystone connection; Fans for the Litter Box Mod; USB 2.0 & USB 3.0 Keystone connection; and the BTT's TFTpi50 screen hookup to the Raspberry Pi. I believe that takes care of all the extra items.
I am tired for now and it looks like I will have to update my [wiring harness diagram](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Wiring_Harness_Diagram/Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.pdf) to reflect the changes to the Klicky probe connection and the Filament Sensor (for ERCF connection) to the Octopus Pro board. I apperently need to swap those two locations. I also need to change the LED hook up on the wiring harness diagram. I have switched from 24VDC LED lights to only using Neopixel lights (which are 5VDC, GND and a data line).
I am tired, and it looks like I will have to update my [wiring harness diagram](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Wiring_Harness_Diagram/Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.pdf) to reflect the changes to the Klicky probe connection and the Filament Sensor (for ERCF connection) to the Octopus Pro board. Furthermore, I apperently need to swap those two locations. I also need to change the LED hook up on the wiring harness diagram. I have switched from 24VDC LED lights to only using Neopixel lights (which are 5VDC, GND and a data line).
1/13/2022: After looking into the Octopus V1.0/V1.1 and the Octopus Pro V1.0 board's schematic diagrams, I decided to look further into the RGB header of both boards.
From reading the the [SN74LVC1G125 chip data sheet on page 5](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/sn74lvc1g125.pdf), I decided some bench testing is needed to see what is going on with the SN74LVC1G125 voltage lines and how it is effecting the Octopus' ability to send data appropriatly to the first NeoPixel.
From reading the [SN74LVC1G125 chip data sheet on page 5](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/sn74lvc1g125.pdf), I decided some bench testing is needed to see what is going on with the SN74LVC1G125 voltage lines and how it is effecting the Octopus' ability to send data appropriatly to the first NeoPixel.
Here is a picture of how I see the problem at this time:

View File

@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ Press Enter to create your local clone.
Now open Window explorer to the location of local clone.
```
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google Drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
@ -31,9 +31,9 @@ As a starting point for this Sourcing Guide, I based my Sourcing Guide on @shamm
I reviewed the "generated_bom" tab, "Voron Afterburner Parts" tab, and the "Voron Optional Parts" tab in @shammy#6484's Sourcing Guide to see if any changes needed to be made. @Shammy#6484 had a tab labeled "Voron 2.4 350" where he listed his cost per part and the quanity he purchased for his Voron 2.4 300 mm³ build.
My build is 250mm³. So the changes you will see are due to the size difference. I erased all his cost information and edited the items listed to buy. I erased all his URL links so that I could enter my URL links. I do not list the cost information. You can do that if you want. My Sourcing Guide is not for me to total my cost, it is basically a way to let you know where I purchased most of my parts for the Voron 2.4 build.
My build is 250 mm³. So the changes you will see are due to the size difference. I erased all his cost information and edited the items listed to buy. I erased all his URL links so that I could enter my URL links. Furthermore, I do not list the cost information. You can do that if you want. My Sourcing Guide is not for me to total my cost, it is basically a way to let you know where I purchased most of my parts for the Voron 2.4 build.
Once my cost hit over $2,000 I quite keeping track of them.
Once my cost hit over $2,000 I quit keeping track of them.
The QUEEN Sourcing Guide is contained in a file called "QUEEN_Sourcing_BOM.xlsx" which is inside a .zip file called "QUEEN_Sourcing_BOM.xlsx.zip". This makes it easier to download the Excel spreadsheet from GitHub since it is contained within a .zip file.

116
README.md
View File

@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ My Voron 2.4 3D Printer has a name "QUEEN".
This repository contains wiring diagrams, specification sheets, any documentation I use to complete my Voron 2.4 build. I also am including aesthetic designs for QUEEN's back panel and side panels.
# This repositoy uses LFS extension
# This repository uses LFS extension
```
I use Git for Windows with VScode to manage this repository. I also use Git LFS extensions for all the files.
@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ Press Enter to create your local clone.
Now open Window explorer to the location of local clone.
```
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google Drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
@ -36,23 +36,23 @@ I am ~~still planning~~ done planning my Voron 2.4 build.
I have all my PIF parts and sourced all my parts via "sub-kits". This will be explained later.
I wanted to post an Excel spreadsheet for sourcing all my "sub-kits" or individual items for my Voron 2.4 ~~, but I need to remove it from a bigger spreadsheet I have been using to keep track of a lot of different information. After I get done with the electronics case wiring diagram, I will work on providing an~~ [Here is the Excel spreadsheet as a sourcing guide for my Voron 2.4](/QUEEN_Sourcing_BOM).
I wanted to post an Excel spreadsheet for sourcing all my "sub-kits" or individual items for my Voron 2.4 ~~, but I need to remove it from a bigger spreadsheet I have been using to keep track of a lot of different information. After I get done with the electronics case wiring diagram, I will work on providing a~~ [Here is the Excel spreadsheet as a sourcing guide for my Voron 2.4](/QUEEN_Sourcing_BOM).
## MODS I plan for QUEEN:
### Fusion 360 CAD files and STEP files:
I have spent 3 months creating the 3D model of my QUEEN Voron 2.4 250mm³ build.
I have spent 3 months creating the 3D model of my QUEEN Voron 2.4 250 mm³ build.
I have used the CAD models from each MOD (listed below) and incorporated the respective MOD's CAD model into my QUEEN Fusion 360 model. After working in Fusion 360 for the past 3 months I have become aware of a couple of things:
1. When exporting sub-Assemblies from Fusion 360 in .STEP format the only sub-assemblies that get put into the STEP file are the sub-assemblies that are visable at the time the exported STEP file is created. So when you use STEP files expect all the sub-assemblies to be visable when you first open up the STEP file. You will have to turn off the options that you do not want to see after you upload the STEP file to Fusion 360 (or your CAD software).
1. When exporting sub-Assemblies from Fusion 360 in .STEP format the only sub-assemblies that get put into the STEP file are the sub-assemblies that are visible at the time the exported STEP file is created. So when you use STEP files expect all the sub-assemblies to be visible when you first open up the STEP file. You will have to turn off the options that you do not want to see after you upload the STEP file to Fusion 360 (or your CAD software).
2. If a MOD did not have a Fusion 360 CAD model, I used the .stl files from the MOD and used Fusion 360 to convert the .stl files into parametric bodies.
3. If you upload .f3d sub-Assembly file and all sub-assembly options are turn on, then please just turn off the sub-assemblies you do not want to see. Sometimes, I exported the .STEP files at the same time I was creating the .f3d files, so I might have left options turned on so I could save the .STEP file.
3. If you upload .f3d sub-Assembly file and all sub-assembly options are turn on, then please just turn off the sub-assemblies you do not want to see. Sometimes, I exported the .STEP files at the same time I was creating the .f3d files, I might have left options turned on, so I could save the .STEP file.
4. I have noticed that if one uses the "save a copy as ..." option that parts will loose their postion (x,y,z). So to create the sub-assemblies I did a "copy" to the clip board and then placed the clip board contents into a new file and saved that file.
4. I have noticed that if one uses the "save a copy as ..." option that parts will lose their position (x,y,z). So to create the sub-assemblies I did a "copy" to the clip board and then placed the clip board contents into a new file and saved that file.
GadgetAngel's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 CAD model (.f3d) and (.STEP) files:
@ -89,15 +89,15 @@ The full model for QUEEN has a fusion 360 (.f3d) file and STEP file. The STEP f
15. [QUEEN's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP versions for the Z-Endstop called the "SexBolt Z-Endstop"](./CAD/Z_Endstop/ZIP_files)
16. [QUEEN's Voron 24 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP version for the BTT piTFT V2.0 articulating arm with display mount](./CAD/Skirts/Front/Middle/ZIP_files)
16. [QUEEN's Voron 24 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP version for the BTT piTFT50 V2.0 articulating arm with display mount](./CAD/Skirts/Front/Middle/ZIP_files)
---
### ".STL List" of files needed for each MOD:
I will be publishing a folder of .stl files for all the printed parts I am using for my QUEEN build, including the ones from my PIF parts ~~(comming soon)~~.
I will be publishing a folder of .stl files for all the printed parts I am using for my QUEEN build, including the ones from my PIF parts ~~(coming soon)~~.
My intent is to list the files needed in each Sub-Assembly and indicate which ".stl files" need to be replaced or exchanged for a MODed ".stl" file. I think an EXCEL spreadsheet would help with this task and can be found [here](/The_.STL_Files/Excel_Spreadsheet_.stl_files).
My intent is to list the files needed in each Sub-Assembly and indicate which ".stl files" need to be replaced or exchanged for a Modded ".stl" file. I think an EXCEL spreadsheet would help with this task and can be found [here](/The_.STL_Files/Excel_Spreadsheet_.stl_files).
The ".STL" files for my QUEEN Voron 2.4 build can be found [here](./The_.STL_Files/Copy_of_.STLs_forQUEEN_As_Built_will-not-be-updated)
@ -118,7 +118,7 @@ Tool head PCB board (MOD) I am using:
---
Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9mm; XY belts 6mm):
Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9 mm; XY belts 6 mm):
1. [Arkeet's "MGN12 Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/arkeet/mgn12);
@ -127,9 +127,9 @@ Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9mm; XY belts 6mm):
3. [Ramalama2's "Misumi_RBPB5 Mod"](https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Misumi_RBPB5);
[Note: this replaces the GE5C Mod](https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron%20Mods/Voron%202/2.4/Voron2.4_GE5C);
4. [0ndsk4's "NeverMore Micro Filter Mod"](https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro);
4. [0ndsk4's "Nevermore Micro Filter Mod"](https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro);
5. I combined two user mods into one mod for the, "Z Drive Motor Tensioner Mod":
5. I combined two user mods into one mod for the "Z Drive Motor Tensioner Mod":
* Z Motor A/B Unit combined from [Edwardyeeks' "V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod); with my modification for the front Skirts for switches and Hour counter;
@ -139,15 +139,15 @@ Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9mm; XY belts 6mm):
* ~~[bluedragonx's "BlueDragonX's Klicky Mods" ](using built-in Klicky Probe to X-Axis Carriage Frame): https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident/Usermods/bluedragonx;~~
Bluedragonx's user mod changes the X-Axis Carriage Frame pieces to allow for a built-in Klicky Probe. I decided to use the regular Klicky Probe mode and a combination of the following two user mods for the Klick Probe body (this way the Klicky Probe is **not** built into the X-Axis Carriage and I can decide to use the Euclid Probe if I so desire [See item #47](#47-derpimus-euclide_probes-omronrotatedxraildock_v2):
Bluedragonx's user mod changes the X-Axis Carriage Frame pieces to allow for a built-in Klicky Probe. I decided to use the regular Klicky Probe mode and a combination of the following two user mods for the Klicky Probe body (this way the Klicky Probe is **not** built into the X-Axis Carriage) and I can decide to use the Euclid Probe, if I so desire [See item #47](#47-derpimus-euclide_probes-omronrotatedxraildock_v2):
* [StefanRaatz's Klicky Mods](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident/Usermods/StefanRaatz); This is a modified Klicky probe with two holes so that you can feed through the uninsolated part of the cable a little bit more. Gave me better contact.
* [StefanRaatz's Klicky Mods](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident/Usermods/StefanRaatz); This is a modified Klicky probe with two holes so that you can feed through the uninsulated part of the cable a little more. Gave me better contact.
* [Oc_geek's More Roboust Klicky Probe Mod](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident/Usermods/oc_geek); Beefier column and revised holes for zip tie (was def too small); reduced height 1mm (was excess) Chanfered bottom in all direction (also sides) on the probe carriage Microswitch body exposed by a tiny bit.
* [Oc_geek's More Robust Klicky Probe Mod](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident/Usermods/oc_geek); Beefier column and revised holes for zip tie (was def too small); reduced height 1 mm (was excess) Chambered bottom in all direction (also sides) on the probe carriage Microswitch body exposed by a tiny bit.
7. [Whoppingpochard's "Ti Backers Mod"](https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/extrusion_backers); Y backers 30 mm from front; X backer 35 mm from the Y axis drag chain;
8. [Ramalama2's "Front_Idlers mod" ](https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers); - these are replacement for Phalanx's "Other-V2-Idlers mod;
8. [Ramalama2's "Front_Idlers mod" ](https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers); - these are replacement for Phalanx's "Other-V2-Idlers" mod;
* Here is the information on Phalanx's "Other-V2-Idlers mod" if you are interested. [Phalanx's "Other-V2-Idlers mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/a425971f2986578e2e5c10e638f59d02172687c1/printer_mods/Phalanx/Other-V2-Idlers);
@ -172,7 +172,7 @@ Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9mm; XY belts 6mm):
18. [StvPtrsn's "Side_Fan_Support_No_Tape Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/StvPtrsn/Side_Fan_Support_No_Tape);
19. [MarcPot's "Skirt_Mod_250 Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/MarcPot/Skirt_Mods); - with my modification so that you can use this with the magnatic bottom panel;
19. [MarcPot's "Skirt_Mod_250 Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/MarcPot/Skirt_Mods); - with my modification so that you can use this with the magnetic bottom panel;
20. My BTT-PITFT5-Mount Mod come from the following sources:
@ -209,11 +209,11 @@ Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9mm; XY belts 6mm):
The following will be needed if you add the kinematic kit to your Voron 2.4 Build:
* [Modified Purge Bucket](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/tree/main/The_.STL_Files/GA_modded_STLs/Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_%26_Nozzle_Scrubber_MOD);
* [buy a longer sexbolt for](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSQZWNP) [Item #10](#10hartk1213s-sexbolt-z-endstop-mod) and
* buy some [Openbuild's Angled brackets](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/openbuilds-angle-corner-connector?_pos=2&_sid=c4c7e2ca4&_ss=r) or you could just use blind joints;
* buy some [Openbuild's Angled brackets](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/openbuilds-angle-corner-connector?_pos=2&_sid=c4c7e2ca4&_ss=r), or you could just use blind joints;
32. [GadgetAngel's "Litter Box mod"](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/tree/main/Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram/Litter_Box_Mod);
33. I also used all [Trident DIN clips](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Trident/tree/main/STLs/ElectronicsBay) for mounting electronics and I used [Trident 3D Printed Parts on the MGN12 Mod](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Trident/tree/main/STLs/Gantry/X_Axis/X_Carriage). **Thank you Voron Design Team for all your hard work!**
33. I also used all [Trident DIN clips](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Trident/tree/main/STLs/ElectronicsBay) for mounting electronics and I used [Trident 3D Printed Parts on the MGN12 Mod](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Trident/tree/main/STLs/Gantry/X_Axis/X_Carriage). **Thank you, Voron Design Team for all your hard work!**
34. [Nemgrea & Geoffreyyoung's "LGX Extruder Mod to replace the Clockwork extruder"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/geoffreyyoung/lgx);
@ -225,7 +225,7 @@ Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9mm; XY belts 6mm):
38. [Boingomw's "Wago_mount mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Boingomw/Wago_mount) used for Wago mount near the Build Plate;
39. [GSL12's "wago_221_mount mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/legacy_printers/printer_mods/GSL12/wago_221_mount); Used these to place WAGO nuts around the whole Voron 2.4 printer mounted to the extrusions.
39. [GSL12's "wago_221_mount mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/legacy_printers/printer_mods/GSL12/wago_221_mount); Used these to place Wago nuts around the whole Voron 2.4 printer mounted to the extrusions.
40. [Jeoje's "Molex_MLX_Microfit_Bed_Connector_Mount Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/jeoje/Molex_MLX_Microfit_Bed_Connector_Mount);
@ -245,13 +245,13 @@ Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9mm; XY belts 6mm):
##### 48. [Voron Design Team's "Stealthburner Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Afterburner/tree/sb-beta/STLs);
49. [Voron Desing Team's "Z Rail end stops"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.2/STLs/VORON2.2/Gantry/%5Ba%5D_z_rail_stop_x4_rev1.stl);
49. [Voron Design Team's "Z Rail end stops"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.2/STLs/VORON2.2/Gantry/%5Ba%5D_z_rail_stop_x4_rev1.stl);
50. [AlexanderT-Moss's 270-Clamping-Hinges for the front doors](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/AlexanderT-Moss/270-Clamping-Hinges) [instead of Item #24's Front door clips](#24--ramalama2s-panel_clips-i-will-use-the-midspan-clips-for-sides-and-top---use-6mm-version---3mm-panel-and-3mm-of-foam-tape);
51. [AlchemyEngine's Skirt-Microfit-Inserts](https://github.com/alchemyEngine/EnragedRabbitProject/tree/main/usermods/Skirt-Microfit-Inserts) - I modified it so I could [mount a Reset button for the BTT V1.2 Relays](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/The_.STL_Files/Copy_of_.STLs_forQUEEN_As_Built_will-not-be-updated/LitterBox_Mod/Electronics/%5Ba%5D_RED_Mini_Push_Button_Momentary_Switch_mount_x6.stl) shown on my AC Wiring Diagram;
51. [AlchemyEngine's Skirt-Microfit-Inserts](https://github.com/alchemyEngine/EnragedRabbitProject/tree/main/usermods/Skirt-Microfit-Inserts) - I modified it. So I could [mount a Reset button for the BTT V1.2 Relays](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/The_.STL_Files/Copy_of_.STLs_forQUEEN_As_Built_will-not-be-updated/LitterBox_Mod/Electronics/%5Ba%5D_RED_Mini_Push_Button_Momentary_Switch_mount_x6.stl) shown on my AC Wiring Diagram;
52. [V6cl's Lift Handles](https://github.com/v6cl/My-Voron2.4-Customs/tree/main/LiftHandle) - I modified the [Lift Handles](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/tree/main/The_.STL_Files/Copy_of_.STLs_forQUEEN_As_Built_will-not-be-updated/Panel_Mounting/LiftHandles_11mm) so they will fit my Side panels which have Edge lighting. Instead of 7 mm clearence I will need 11 mm cleareance.
52. [V6cl's Lift Handles](https://github.com/v6cl/My-Voron2.4-Customs/tree/main/LiftHandle) - I modified the [Lift Handles](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/tree/main/The_.STL_Files/Copy_of_.STLs_forQUEEN_As_Built_will-not-be-updated/Panel_Mounting/LiftHandles_11mm), so they will fit my side panels which have edge lighting. Instead of 7 mm clearance I will need 11 mm clearance.
53. [V6cl's Panel_Locker](https://github.com/v6cl/My-Voron2.4-Customs/tree/main/Panel_Locker) as the front door handles.
@ -341,25 +341,25 @@ https://www.newark.com/mean-well/uhp-500-48/power-supply-ac-dc-48v-10-45a/dp/01A
So I could use option 3 & 4 **OR** 5 & 6.
Since I plan on LEDS; running a Raspberry Pi 4B with a solid state disk drive (via USB 3.1 interface instead of using a Micro-SD card); and a camera, I want to have enough power to add extras to the Voron Build.
Since I plan on LEDs; running a Raspberry Pi 4B with a solid state disk drive (via USB 3.1 interface instead of using a Micro-SD card); and a camera, I want to have enough power to add extras to the Voron Build.
I opted to buy the following:
1. UHP-500-48 for my 48VDC supply
2. UHP-500-24 for my 24VDC supply
3. RS-25-5 for my 5VDC supply
4. ~~UHP-200-12 for my 12VDC supply~~ Since I switched my LEDS from 12VDC and 24VDC so that all LEDs will be Neopixels, I need another 5VDC PSU instead of a 12V PSU. So I decided to by a combo PSU that will supply 5VDC and 12VDC. I purchased a [Meanwell RD-50A](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/MeanWell%20RD-50A%20specs.PDF)
4. ~~UHP-200-12 for my 12VDC supply~~ Since I switched my LEDs from 12VDC and 24VDC so that all LEDs will be NeoPixels, I need another 5VDC PSU instead of a 12V PSU. So I decided to by a combo PSU that will supply 5VDC and 12VDC. I purchased a [Meanwell RD-50A](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/MeanWell%20RD-50A%20specs.PDF)
I will use the Octopus Pro to power the stepper motor drivers, heater cartridge, temperature sensors, limit switches, and generate signals on PINs to control stuff, but I do not plan on powering stuff off the Octopus Pro board that is considered optional equipment like LEDs, an endoscope or cameras. Since my Raspberry Pi (running Klipper) is the brains of this setup, I will be using a solid state drive to act as the disk drive for the Raspberry Pi. This adds additional current draw and the Raspberry Pi will have its own 5V PSU.
All my LEDS are ~~12VDC or 24VDC~~ Neopixels so they are 5VDC. So that is why I am running a second separate 5VDC PSU and added additional current capability to my 24VDC supply.
All my LEDs are ~~12VDC or 24VDC~~ NeoPixels which are 5VDC. So that is why I am running a second separate 5VDC PSU and added additional current capability to my 24VDC supply.
I plan on running all TMC5160 (HV) PRO stepper motor drivers for all my motors on QUEEN.
I know this is an overkill but if I want the power it will be there. I am lazy, and I do not want to redo wiring at a later date.
I know this is an overkill but if I want the power it will be there, and I do not want to redo wiring at a later date.
~~I am hoping I can fit all of this in my electronics case for a 250 mm build.~~ Edited: There is not enough room for all the PSU and all the electronics therefore I developed my own "Litter Box" Mod so I can keep the AC Power in the bottom electronic's case and use my "Litter Box" for the DC electronic components.
~~Likewise, I am hoping to fit all of my electronics into the electronics case for a 250 mm build.~~ Edited: There is not enough room for all the PSU and all the electronics therefore I developed my own "Litter Box" Mod, so I can keep the AC Power in the bottom electronic's case and use my "Litter Box" for the DC electronic components.
[Click here to get explaination about the "Litter Box" Mod](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/tree/main/Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram/Litter_Box_Mod).
[Click here to get explanation about the "Litter Box" Mod](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/tree/main/Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram/Litter_Box_Mod).
1/5/2022: Click [here](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/tree/main/Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram#lesson-learned-while-doing-the-electronics-case-wiring-diagram-for-queen) to see further information about the "Voron 2.4 AC wiring diagram".
@ -374,9 +374,9 @@ First off, if you have not heard I bought the Voron 2.4 300mm³ LDO kit. I need
Back to the issue at hand. How did I determine the amount of VAC I would need for each of my Voron 2.4 builds? Once you decide on the power supply units (PSUs) you will be using for your build, get hold of the data sheets for each of the PSU and look at the specification called "INPUT" "AC Current (typ.)" there should be an amount of amps listed for either 115VAC or 230VAC. For the USA and corresponding countries that use 120VAC (60Hz) or you will see on the spec sheet of the PSU a listing for "115VAC". While Europe uses 230VAC (50Hz), you will see on the spec sheet of the PSU a listing for "230VAC". Take the "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values for your type of power distribution system and add them all together to get a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value. So for sake of an example, I am in the USA, so I added all my "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values together for my 4 PSU and got a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" = 11.7 amps for the QUEEN build.
Now I was looking at the [APC UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector Unit from Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM). It says in the title that is has 1500VA so I take that number and divide 115VAC into it to give me the total INPUT AC Current (typ) that this UPS Battery Backup unit can handle. So 1500/115 = 13.0434782 Amps maximum. I only need 11.7 amps. So take 11.7/13.0434782 to see what % of the total I will be using = 0.89699 or 89.699% so I have 100%-89.699% of overhead left unused which is equal to 10.30% left unused. So as long as I have at least 10% unused overhead available I will purchase the unit.
Now I was looking at the [APC UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector Unit from Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM). It says in the title that is has 1500VA. So I take that number and divide 115VAC into it to give me the total INPUT AC Current (typ) that this UPS Battery Backup unit can handle. So 1500/115 = 13.0434782 Amps maximum. I only need 11.7 amps. So take 11.7/13.0434782 to see what % of the total I will be using = 0.89699 or 89.699%. So I have 100%-89.699% of overhead left unused which is equal to 10.30% left unused. As long as I have at least 10% unused overhead available, I will purchase the unit.
Now let us look at the Voron 2.4 LDO kit. When I add up all the "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values for that build I get a total of 4 Amps. I have a extra APC UPS unit here at my home that is called [APC UPS 850VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC21FE). So I take 850/115 = 7.3913 Amps maximum. I am only using 4 Amps. What is my left unused overhead value? 1-(4/7)*100=42.86%. I feel better with an overhead that large. I personally would not buy a UPS unit that did not give me at least a 10% unused overhead value.
Now let us look at the Voron 2.4 LDO kit. When I add up all the "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values for that build I get a total of 4 Amps. I have an extra APC UPS unit here at my home that is called [APC UPS 850VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC21FE). So I take 850/115 = 7.3913 Amps maximum. I am only using 4 Amps. What is my left unused overhead value? 1-(4/7)*100=42.86%. I feel better with an overhead that large. I personally would not buy a UPS unit that did not give me at least a 10% unused overhead value.
## How to calculate the Amps required for the BIG RED mushroom button
@ -384,21 +384,21 @@ Added on 1/11/2022:
To calculate the total "INPUT AC Current Draw" from your Voron 2.4 build, look at each of the PSUs you have included in your Voron 2.4. On the data sheet for the PSUs you will see a specification labeled "INPUT" "AC Current (typ.)" there should be an amount of amps listed for either 115VAC or 230VAC. Take the "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values for your type of power distribution system and add them all together to get a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value.
So for example, I am in the USA, so I added all my "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values together for the 115VAC option and my 4 PSUs and draw a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value of 11.7 Amps for the QUEEN build. For the Voron-LDO build by total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value is 4 Amps.
So for example, I am in the USA, so I added all my "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values together for the 115VAC option and my 4 PSUs and draw a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value of 11.7 Amps for the QUEEN build. For the Voron_LDO build by total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value is 4 Amps.
I purchased this [BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVPJ4) which is rated upto 10 Amps. So, for the Voron-LDO build this [BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVPJ4) will work without modification. I can run both the AC "LINE" and the AC "NEUTRAL" wires from the wall outlet into the "BIG RED" mushroom button and use the two NC contacts to switch those lines (one contact per wire).
I purchased this [BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVPJ4) which is rated up to 10 Amps. So, for the Voron_LDO build this [BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVPJ4) will work without modification. I can run both the AC "LINE" and the AC "NEUTRAL" wires from the wall outlet into the "BIG RED" mushroom button and use the two NC contacts to switch those lines (one contact per wire).
But for the QUEEN Build the total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value is 11.7 Amps, which is above the rated 10 Amps for this [BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVPJ4). The problem is I could not find a BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button that is rated for 20 Amps on Amazon. So this is what I have opted to do. In the USA, we really do not need to switch the AC "Neutral" wire but switching the AC "Line" wire is what is really needed. Since this [BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVPJ4) has TWO normally closed (NC) contacts and each contact is rated for 10 Amps, I can just run the AC "Line" wire into the two NC contacts in parallel. Think of the BIG RED Mushroom button as a DPST switch. By wiring the contacts up in parellel then each contact will handle 10 Amps and now my BIG RED Mushroom Button can handle 20 Amps on the AC "Line" wire. On the output of the NC contacts the two AC "Line" wires are brought back toether for a single output feed.
But for the QUEEN Build the total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value is 11.7 Amps, which is above the rated 10 Amps for this [BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVPJ4). The problem is I could not find a BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button that is rated for 20 Amps on Amazon. So this is what I have opted to do. In the USA, we really do not need to switch the AC "Neutral" wire but switching the AC "Line" wire is what is really needed. Since this [BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVPJ4) has TWO normally closed (NC) contacts and each contact is rated for 10 Amps, I can just run the AC "Line" wire into the two NC contacts in parallel. Think of the BIG RED Mushroom button as a DPST switch. By wiring the contacts up in parallel then each contact will handle 10 Amps and now my BIG RED Mushroom Button can handle 20 Amps on the AC "Line" wire. On the output of the NC contacts the two AC "Line" wires are brought back together for a single output feed.
~~So now I need to change my "AC wiring diagram" to reflect this change in the BIG RED button for the QUEEN Build.~~
I have updated the ["AC wiring diagram"](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/images/Voron_2.4_Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram_AC_wiring.pdf) to reflect the changes to the BIG RED mushroom Emergency Button.
I also modified the [Skirt-Microfit-Inserts Mod from Ette's ERCF project](/The_.STL_Files/GA_modded_STLs/Skirt/Front/A/%5Ba%5D_Button_mount%20Z-tensioner_Mod_Front_OR_Rear_Hour_Counter_Skirt_A_300_x2.stl) so that I would have a place to mount QUEEN's "Reset Printer Only"
buttons. The other four switches will control four Neopixel LED Strings and they will be on the "DC wiring diagram". I also need to print the 300mm front skirt version so that I have a place to mount this "Skirt_Insert" called "\[a\]_Button_mount Z-tensioner_Mod_Front_OR_Rear_Hour_Counter_Skirt_A_300.stl" and "\[a\]_Button_mount_Front_OR_Rear_Rocker-switches_Skirt_B_300.stl".
buttons. The other four switches will control four Neopixel LED Strings, and they will be on the "DC wiring diagram". I also need to print the 300 mm front skirt version so that I have a place to mount this "Skirt_Insert" called "\[a\]_Button_mount Z-tensioner_Mod_Front_OR_Rear_Hour_Counter_Skirt_A_300.stl" and "\[a\]_Button_mount_Front_OR_Rear_Rocker-switches_Skirt_B_300.stl".
To learn more about parallel ciruitus see [UNDERSTANDING & CALCULATING PARALLEL CIRCUITS - EXPLANATION](https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/electrical/lecture/parallel_circuits.htm)
To learn more about parallel circuits see [UNDERSTANDING & CALCULATING PARALLEL CIRCUITS - EXPLANATION](https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/electrical/lecture/parallel_circuits.htm)
Here is a diagram on how to wire two NC contacts up in parellel:
Here is a diagram on how to wire two NC contacts up in parallel:
![ParallelDiagram](images/Parallel_Diagram.jpg)
@ -523,7 +523,7 @@ This repository also has information on how to wire up an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 boar
## How to set up Klipper on a Raspberry Pi
I am using a [Raspberry Pi 4B that I bought from CanaKit](https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-4-extreme-aluminum-case-kit.html). You can choose to run the Raspberry Pi 4B with a micro-SD card or you can use a solid state drive as your disk drive.
I am using a [Raspberry Pi 4B that I bought from CanaKit](https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-4-extreme-aluminum-case-kit.html). You can choose to run the Raspberry Pi 4B with a micro-SD card, or you can use a solid state drive as your disk drive.
I bought a [Samsung 870 EVO 500 GB SATA (2.5") Solid State Drive (SSD) (MZ-77E500) from Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T1QQZ1T) with a [StarTech.com USB 3.1 to 2.5" SATA Hard Drive Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XLAZODE).
@ -531,31 +531,31 @@ It does not matter which item you use to boot the Raspberry Pi 4B, but you do ne
The first thing you will need to do is to format the micro-SD card or the SSD. I have a Windows 10 machine so all my instructions will assume you are using a Windows 10 OS.
Before you can format a SSD you first need to initialize the media. On Window 10, "Right-click" on the startup menu in the lower left corner of your desktop. Choose the "Disk Management" option. The "Disk Management" tool will automatically ask you if you want to initialize the new disk drive. Say "Yes". When Windowns is done, exit the "Disk Management" Tool. Now you need to create a primary partition for the SSD. Since we will be creating a primary partition of FAT32 larger than 32GB, we can not use the Windows 10 "Disk Management" Tool to do this.
Before you can format a SSD you first need to initialize the media. On Window 10, "Right-click" on the startup menu in the lower left corner of your desktop. Choose the "Disk Management" option. The "Disk Management" tool will automatically ask you if you want to initialize the new disk drive. Say "Yes". When Windows is done, exit the "Disk Management" Tool. Now you need to create a primary partition for the SSD. Since we will be creating a primary partition of FAT32 larger than 32 GB, we can not use the Windows 10 "Disk Management" Tool to do this.
I like to use the program ["MiniTool Partion Wizard", so click here](https://www.partitionwizard.com/free-partition-manager.html). As a home user you can download it and use it for free. Download and Install the software onto your computer. With the "MiniTool Partion Wizard" you will need to create a primary partion by choosing the square labeled "Disk & Partition Management". Choose the new destination drive and select "Create a partition". Set "Create As" field to "Primary", set "File System" as "FAT32" and accept default for everthing else. Select "Ok". Now all that did was place the command into the que. You need to select "Apply" to get the software to actual execute the command. Once "MiniTool Partion Wizard" is done creating the primary partion you can format the SSD by choosing the "Format Partition" and set the "File System" field to "FAT32". Leave all other fields at the default. Select "OK" and "Apply". When "MiniTool Partion Wizrd" is finished you can exit the software by closing out the window.
I like to use the program ["MiniTool Partion Wizard", so click here](https://www.partitionwizard.com/free-partition-manager.html). As a home user you can download it and use it for free. Download and Install the software onto your computer. With the "MiniTool Partion Wizard" you will need to create a primary partion by choosing the square labeled "Disk & Partition Management". Choose the new destination drive and select "Create a partition". Set "Create As" field to "Primary", set "File System" as "FAT32" and accept default for everything else. Select "Ok". Now all that did was place the command into the Que. You need to select "Apply" to get the software to actually execute the command. Once "MiniTool Partion Wizard" is done creating the primary partion you can format the SSD by choosing the "Format Partition" and set the "File System" field to "FAT32". Leave all other fields at the default. Select "OK" and "Apply". When "MiniTool Partion Wizard" is finished you can exit the software by closing out the window.
For a micro-SD card, all you need to do is place the mico-SD card into an adapter that will allow your Windows 10 machine to read the micro-SD card. I need a micro-SD card to USB reader. You can use windows to format the micro-SD card by opening Windows file explorer [Win Key]+[E key] select "This PC" now right-click on the micro-SD card and choose "Format". Set the "File System" field to "FAT32" and click "Start".
For a micro-SD card, all you need to do is place the micro-SD card into an adapter that will allow your Windows 10 machine to read the micro-SD card. I need a micro-SD card to USB reader. You can use windows to format the micro-SD card by opening Windows file explorer [Win Key]+[E key] select "This PC" now right-click on the micro-SD card and choose "Format". Set the "File System" field to "FAT32" and click "Start".
Once the micro-SD card (or SSD drive) is formated for FAT32 you are ready to burn the image of "raspberry pi OS lite" onto the media. First you need to download the image of [Raspberry Pi OS Lite, by clicking here](https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/operating-systems/). Select "Download" next to the item listed as "Raspberry Pi OS Lite" and save the file onto your local disk drive. Remember where you put it because you will need to navigate to the image file in the next step. Before moving onto the next step take the time now to UnZip the folder so you will be able to access the image (*.img) file.
Once the micro-SD card (or SSD drive) is formatted for FAT32 you are ready to burn the image of "Raspberry Pi OS lite" onto the media. First you need to download the image of [Raspberry Pi OS Lite, by clicking here](https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/operating-systems/). Select "Download" next to the item listed as "Raspberry Pi OS Lite" and save the file onto your local disk drive. Remember where you put it because you will need to navigate to the image file in the next step. Before moving onto the next step take the time now to Un-Zip the folder, so you will be able to access the image (*.img) file.
Once the download is complete, you will need another program called ["Balena Etcher", so click here](https://www.balena.io/etcher/). Select "Download for Windows (x86|x64)" and save the file to your disk drive. Install the "Balena Etcher" software on to your computer.
Open Etcher and choose "Select Image". You now have to navigate to the directory of where you stored the image of "Raspberry Pi OS Lite. The name of the file for my "Raspberry Pi OS Lite" was "2021-10-30-raspios-bullseye-armhf-lite.img". Now choose "Select Drive". Since you formatted the micro-SD card (or the SSD) the media should have been assigned a disk drive letter. Ensure you have selected the correct drive letter. You do not want to overwrite the wrong drive letter. Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible for anyone who overwrites their main disk drive for their computer system. Double check that you selected the correct drive letter and that it matches the one for your micro-SD card (or the SSD) that you will be using with your Raspberry Pi 4B. Once you are sure you have selected the correct drive letter, now select "Flash!". Etcher might give you a warning especially if you are flashing to a SSD, just again ensure you have the correct drive letter and when you are sure tell Etcher "yes or proceed". Etcher will then take the *.img file and write it to the media. After Etcher is finished it will automatically dismount the media from your computer. So unplug the USB connector of the micro-SD card (or SSD) and plug it back into your USB port.
We now have to add a file to the micro-SD card (or SSD). This file is an empty file. You just need to create the filename "SSH". I usually just right-click inside the Window Explorer folder for the micro-SD card (or SSD) and choose the option of "New" -> "Text docuement". I assign the name "SSH" and remove the extension ".txt". This is a very impartant step the file CAN NOT have a file extension. The file must be named "SSH" or "ssh" without an extension. The empty ssh file will tell the "Raspberry Pi OS Lite" operating system to enable the SSH sever automatically upon first boot up.
We now have to add a file to the micro-SD card (or SSD). This file is an empty file. You just need to create the filename "SSH". I usually just right-click inside the Window Explorer folder for the micro-SD card (or SSD) and choose the option of "New" "Text document". I assign the name "SSH" and remove the extension ".txt". This is a very important step the file CAN NOT have a file extension. The file must be named "SSH" or "ssh" without an extension. The empty ssh file will tell the "Raspberry Pi OS Lite" operating system to enable the SSH sever automatically upon first boot up.
Once you have added the ssh file to the contents of the micro-SD card (or SSD) it is now time to dismount the media from your computer and plug the media into the Raspberry Pi 4B so it can boot up (of course you need to ensure you also connect a power supply to the Raspberry Pi 4B and an ethernet cable). Once you have plugged in the micro-SD card (or SSD) to the Raspberry Pi, and connect an ethernet cable to the ethernet port, turn on the power supply and allow it to boot.
Once you have added the ssh file to the contents of the micro-SD card (or SSD) it is now time to dismount the media from your computer and plug the media into the Raspberry Pi 4B, so it can boot up (of course you need to ensure you also connect a power supply to the Raspberry Pi 4B and an Ethernet cable). Once you have plugged in the micro-SD card (or SSD) to the Raspberry Pi, and connect an Ethernet cable to the Ethernet port, turn on the power supply and allow it to boot.
The Raspberry Pi OS will look to see if a micro-SD card is present, if a micro-SD card is present it will try to boot off the micro-SD card. But if a micro-SD card is not present, it will start to look for another media to boot from and this is when it will find the solid state drive. So for those of you that want to use the SSD as the main boot device make sure that the micro-SD card reader of your Rapberry Pi is empty when you have the SSD attached to the USB 3.0 port.
The Raspberry Pi OS will look to see if a micro-SD card is present, if a micro-SD card is present it will try to boot off the micro-SD card. But if a micro-SD card is not present, it will start to look for another media to boot from and this is when it will find the solid state drive. So for those of you that want to use the SSD as the main boot device make sure that the micro-SD card reader of your Raspberry Pi is empty when you have the SSD attached to the USB 3.0 port.
The Raspberry Pi will boot and then be assigne an IP address on your network. We need to know the IP address so we can remotely login to the Raspberry Pi. On a Windows 10 machine open up a command prompt window, and type the command "ping raspberrypi.local -4". Since this is a fresh install of the Raspberry Pi, all Raspberry Pi are assigned a hostname of raspberrypi after the intial boot. The default login information is username is "pi" and password is "raspberry". After you perform the windows cmd "ping raspberrypi.local -4", the ping command will display an IP address that it trasmitted packets too. Write down the IP address that recieved those packets. This is the IP address of your new raspberry pi.
The Raspberry Pi will boot and then be assigned an IP address on your network. We need to know the IP address, so we can remotely log in to the Raspberry Pi. On a Windows 10 machine open up a command prompt window, and type the command "ping raspberrypi.local -4". Since this is a fresh installation of the Raspberry Pi, all Raspberry Pi are assigned a hostname of raspberrypi after the initial boot. The default login information is username is "pi" and password is "raspberry". After you perform the windows cmd "ping raspberrypi.local -4", the ping command will display an IP address that it transmitted packets too. Write down the IP address that received those packets. This is the IP address of your new Raspberry Pi.
To setup Klipper on the new raspberry pi you will need to remotely login into the raspberry pi via ssh. To do this you need another software package called ["Putty", click here](https://www.putty.org/). Install the software on your computer. Now run Putty and enter in the IP address (in the Host Name field) you saw in the "ping raspberrypi.local -4" command. Leave the Port number set to 22. Now hit "Open". You should see a window that pops up that says something about the authorization key has not been stored. Just say you trust the device. You will then get the login prompt. Enter in "pi" for the username and "raspberry" for the password.
To set up Klipper on the new Raspberry Pi you will need to remotely log in into the Raspberry Pi via ssh. To do this you need another software package called ["Putty", click here](https://www.putty.org/). Install the software on your computer. Now run Putty and enter the IP address (in the Host Name field) you saw in the "ping raspberrypi.local -4" command. Leave the Port number set to 22. Now hit "Open". You should see a window that pops up that says something about the authorization key has not been stored. Just say you trust the device. You will then get the login prompt. Enter in "pi" for the username and "raspberry" for the password.
If you get the "connect rejected" message, then there is something wrong with the ssh server. When you placeed the empty ssh file in the file folder of the boot media you either misspelled the filename or left the ".txt" extension on the filename. You can fix the "connect rejected" message by powering off the Raspberry pi; removing the boot media from the Raspberry Pi; reattach the boot media to your computer and double check the empty ssh filename is "ssh" only; then reattach the boot media to the Raspberry pi and reboot again.
If you get the "connect rejected" message, then there is something wrong with the ssh server. When you placed the empty ssh file in the file folder of the boot media you either misspelled the filename or left the ".txt" extension on the filename. You can fix the "connect rejected" message by powering off the Raspberry Pi; removing the boot media from the Raspberry Pi; reattach the boot media to your computer and double-check the empty ssh filename is "ssh" only; then reattach the boot media to the Raspberry Pi and reboot again.
Now you should be logged in to the Raspberry Pi. When you see a "$" this means you need to type a comand at the command prompt. If you see a ">" this means you type a number at the current command prompt. Follow the below sequece to install KIAUH, Klipper, MoonRacker, Mainsail, KlipperScreen and Octoprint. Once that is all installed we will then be hooking up the Octopus or Octopus Pro boards so that we can flash a new bootloader on to the boards. This new bootloader will allow the Raspberry Pi to talk to the Octopus board. But for now just follow the below squence to install everything you will need on the Raspberry Pi 4B. Also, make sure you have an ethernet cable attached to the Raspberry Pi's ethernet port:
Now you should be logged in to the Raspberry Pi. When you see a "$" this means you need to type a command at the command prompt. If you see a ">" this means you type a number at the current command prompt. Follow the below sequence to install KIAUH, Klipper, MoonRacker, Mainsail, KlipperScreen and Octoprint. Once that is all installed we will then be hooking up the Octopus or Octopus Pro boards so that we can flash a new bootloader on to the boards. This new bootloader will allow the Raspberry Pi to talk to the Octopus board. But for now just follow the below sequence to install everything you will need on the Raspberry Pi 4B. Also, make sure you have an Ethernet cable attached to the Raspberry Pi's Ethernet port:
```
$sudo raspi-config
@ -612,15 +612,15 @@ Now that Klipper and its corresponding software has been installed onto the Rasp
$sudo reboot
```
If you have either an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or the Octopus PRO board you will need a fresh micro-SD card so that you can trasnfer the compiled firmware over to the Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or the Octopus PRO board. You will need to download and install on your PC the software ["winscp", by clicking here](https://winscp.net/eng/download.php).
If you have either an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or the Octopus PRO board you will need a fresh micro-SD card so that you can transfer the compiled firmware over to the Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or the Octopus PRO board. You will need to download and install on your PC the software ["winscp", by clicking here](https://winscp.net/eng/download.php).
The Winscp software will allow you to trasnfer a file off the raspberry pi to your PC's disk drive. This way when the Raspberry Pi has finished compiling the firmware for the Octopus board you can grab the "Klipper.bin" file and transfer it to your PC disk drive and then copy it over to the Micro-SD card that you will place into the Octopus board's Micro-SD card reader. When you copy the "klipper.bin" file over to the Micro-SD card remember to rename it to "firmware.bin". If the file is not renamed "firmware.bin" then the Octopus boards (V1.0/V1.1 or PRO) bootloader will not be updated properly.
The Winscp software will allow you to transfer a file off the Raspberry Pi to your PC's disk drive. This way when the Raspberry Pi has finished compiling the firmware for the Octopus board you can grab the "Klipper.bin" file and transfer it to your PC disk drive and then copy it over to the Micro-SD card that you will place into the Octopus board's Micro-SD card reader. When you copy the "klipper.bin" file over to the Micro-SD card remember to rename it to "firmware.bin". If the file is not renamed "firmware.bin" then the Octopus boards (V1.0/V1.1 or PRO) bootloader will not be updated properly.
Now we need to apply power to the Octopus board. I typically power the Octopus board using the USB-C cable when I do this next step (ensure you have the Jumper on the for PWR SELECTION header so that the USB-C can power the 5V rail of the Octopus board)
But you could power the Octopus board by using an independent PSU and attach the 12VDC and GND to the screw terminals (just ensure you **remove** the Jumper from the PWR SELECTION header so that the 5V rail is **not** getting power via the USB-C cable)
Now use the USB-C cable that came with the Octopus board and attach it to the Raspberry Pi (USB 2.0) port. If the Jumper is on the PWR SELECTION header than the Raspberry Pi will supply the 5VDC to the 5V rail of the Octopus Board and also commuicate to the Octpus board via USB. If the Jumper is removed from the PWR SELECTION header than the USB-C cable will be used for communications only.
Now use the USB-C cable that came with the Octopus board and attach it to the Raspberry Pi (USB 2.0) port. If the Jumper is on the PWR SELECTION header than the Raspberry Pi will supply the 5VDC to the 5V rail of the Octopus Board and also communicate to the Octopus board via USB. If the Jumper is removed from the PWR SELECTION header than the USB-C cable will be used for communications only.
When the Raspberry Pi reboots, use Putty to log back into the device.
@ -695,7 +695,7 @@ bootloader pull the micro-SD card out of the Octopus board and reload it onto yo
been change from "firmware.bin" to "FIRMWARE.CUR". If the filename changed then the Octopus board updated its bootloader correctly.
```
If you have an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or an Octopus Pro board with F446 chip, skip the follwoing steps. These steps are for the Octopus PRO board with the F429. If you have an Octopus Pro board that uses the F429 chip, please follow the next steps:
If you have an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or an Octopus Pro board with F446 chip, skip the following steps. These steps are for the Octopus PRO board with the F429. If you have an Octopus Pro board that uses the F429 chip, please follow the next steps:
```
$./kiauh/kiauh.sh
@ -733,7 +733,7 @@ been change from "firmware.bin" to "FIRMWARE.CUR". If the filename changed then
### Finding the MCU ID:
At this point if you have an Octoops V1.0/V1.1 or an Octopus Pro with F446 chip or an Octopus Pro with F429 Chip, you have successfully updated its bootloader because the "firmware.bin" filname on the micro-SD card was renamed to "FIRMWARE.CUR"
At this point if you have an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 or an Octopus Pro with F446 chip or an Octopus Pro with F429 Chip, you have successfully updated its bootloader because the "firmware.bin" filename on the micro-SD card was renamed to "FIRMWARE.CUR"
But we will be needing the MCU ID for out Klipper configuration file, so let's log back into the Raspberry Pi by using Putty.
@ -760,13 +760,13 @@ Copy this string down because you will have to add it to your Klipper config fil
>Q
```
If you loose the MCU ID you can alway rerun KIAUH option 4, option 6, choose 1 for USB and it will display the information for you again.
If you loose the MCU ID you can always rerun KIAUH option 4, option 6, choose 1 for USB, and it will display the information for you again.
## Klipper firmware supports the Octopus Pro V1.0 board:
Here is the link to the config file on GitHub for the Octopus pro V1.0 board https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/generic-bigtreetech-octopus.cfg.
Here is the link to the Klipper configuration file for the Voron 2.4 printer on the Voron 2.4 github site https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/firmware/klipper_configurations/Octopus/Voron2_Octopus_Config.cfg
Here is the link to the Klipper configuration file for the Voron 2.4 printer on the Voron 2.4 GitHub site https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/firmware/klipper_configurations/Octopus/Voron2_Octopus_Config.cfg
If you are using the "PROBE" connector for a proximity sensor you will need to add a [probe] section to the "generic-bigtreetech-octopus.cfg" file and ensure that the sensor_pin: PC5
@ -794,5 +794,5 @@ To calculate the maximum amps allowed on the 24VDC rail on mother board:
Please use the "Color PIN Diagram" in [BTT_Octopus_Pro_V1.0_Color_PIN_Diagram](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/BTT_Octopus_Color_PIN_Diagram/tree/main/BTT_Octopus_Pro_V1.0_Color_PIN_Diagram) to obtain the correct PIN assignments.
If you decide to flash a new bootloader to the Octopus Pro V1.0 board (you should not need to because you can upload the new Klipper firmware using the micro-SD card reader) and find that the micro-SD card bootloader no longer works you will want to return the board to its shipment state by finding the original bootloader and "bootlaoder+firmware" files at https://github.com/GadgetAngel/BTT_SKR_13_14_14T_SD-DFU-Bootloader/tree/main/bootloader_bin/backed_up_original_bootloaders
If you decide to flash a new bootloader to the Octopus Pro V1.0 board (you should not need to because you can upload the new Klipper firmware using the micro-SD card reader) and find that the micro-SD card bootloader no longer works you will want to return the board to its shipment state by finding the original bootloader and "bootloader+firmware" files at https://github.com/GadgetAngel/BTT_SKR_13_14_14T_SD-DFU-Bootloader/tree/main/bootloader_bin/backed_up_original_bootloaders

View File

@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ $ git clone https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log.git
Press Enter to create your local clone.
Now open Window explorer to the location of local clone.
```
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google Drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
## xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
@ -28,7 +28,7 @@ The PDF file looks the same as the JPG file. You can enlarge the image for both
You can view the PDF in your browser by clicking on the filename ["Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.pdf"](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Wiring_Harness_Diagram/Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.pdf) and then hit the download button.
You can view an even higher resolution image (give it a minute or two to load, it takes longer due to the higher resolution) when you view the PDF in your browser by clicking on the filename ["Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness_400ppi.pdf"](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Wiring_Harness_Diagram/Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness_400ppi.pdf) and then hit the download button.
Furthermore, you can view an even higher resolution image (give it a minute or two to load, it takes longer due to the higher resolution) when you view the PDF in your browser by clicking on the filename ["Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness_400ppi.pdf"](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Wiring_Harness_Diagram/Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness_400ppi.pdf) and then hit the download button.
## A Picture of the "Wiring Harness" for QUEEN:
@ -58,8 +58,8 @@ ABL means auto bed leveling or an inductive probe or the proximity sensor connec
For version #1 of the v3.rabbit board, the columns are labeled from left to right: ABL, PCF, HEF, FS. For version #2 of the v3.rabbit board, the columns are labeled from left to right: ABL, PCF, HEF.
For version #1 and version #2 the rows are: 1st row is 24VDC; 2nd row is (ABL, PCF, or HEF, {only on Version #1 FS}); and 3rd row is 5VDC.
Version #1 and version #2 the rows are: 1st row is 24VDC; 2nd row is (ABL, PCF, or HEF, {only on Version #1 FS}); and 3rd row is 5VDC.
If you have version #2 and you want 5VDC, you are going to cut the trace to the 24VDC on the desired PIN (ABL, PCF or HEF)!
If you have version #2, and you want 5VDC, you are going to cut the trace to the 24VDC on the desired PIN (ABL, PCF or HEF)!
![JPG of wiring harness Diagram](Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.jpg)