mirror of
https://github.com/Annex-Engineering-Redoubt-Test/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log.git
synced 2025-07-02 01:37:26 -04:00
Update README
This commit is contained in:
JoAnn Manges
@ -14,17 +14,17 @@ $ git clone https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log.git
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Press Enter to create your local clone.
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Now open Window explorer to the location of local clone.
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```
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## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
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## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google Drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
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## xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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### What is the Litter Box Mod?
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Think of the "Litter Box" as the poor man's DOOM mod. Basically, I split the electronics up into two sections. AC electronics go in the "bottom case" on the Voron 2.4 250mm³ and the standard electronics boards go in the "Litter Box" mod. Instead of putting the "standard electronics" on the TOP of the printer (as the DOOM MOD does), I put the boards on the BACK of the Voron 2.4 250mm³ build. I did this so I would **not** have to buy another wiring harness. I can use the wiring harnesses that are pre-made. For the DOOM Mod the pre-made wiring harness will not work because it will not be long enough, but the "Litter Box" mod allows you to use the pre-made wiring harness. I also designed the "Litter Box" mod so that one can not see the "Litter Box" mod is attached to the printer unless you are viewing the Voron from the side.
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Think of the "Litter Box" as the poor man's DOOM mod. Basically, I split the electronics up into two sections. AC electronics go in the "bottom case" on the Voron 2.4 250 mm³ and the standard electronics boards go in the "Litter Box" mod. Instead of putting the "standard electronics" on the TOP of the printer (as the DOOM MOD does), I put the boards on the BACK of the Voron 2.4 250 mm³ build. I did this, so I would **not** have to buy another wiring harness. I can use the wiring harnesses that are pre-made. For the DOOM Mod the pre-made wiring harness will not work because it will not be long enough, but the "Litter Box" mod allows you to use the pre-made wiring harness. I also designed the "Litter Box" mod so that one can not see the "Litter Box" mod is attached to the printer unless you are viewing the Voron from the side.
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I also designed the "Litter Box" Mod so that I did not have to cut out a lot of different holes in the Coraplast top/bottom panels or the two Coraplast side panels. I also designed an "Extended" skirt, so that the back skirt is not hidden underneath the mod, instead the back skirt has been moved out. This then required me to design an extended Bottom panel to cover the AC socket plugs. To hold the extended Bottom panel in place, I had to design two clips interfaces blocks so that I could reused the bottom magnetic clips from [Hernsl's "Bottom_panel_mag_clip Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hernsl/bottom_panel_mag_clip).
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I also designed the "Litter Box" Mod so that I did not have to cut out a lot of different holes in the Coraplast top/bottom panels or the two Coraplast side panels. Furthermore, I also designed an "Extended" skirt, so that the back skirt is not hidden underneath the mod, instead the back skirt has been moved out. This then required me to design an extended Bottom panel to cover the AC socket plugs. To hold the extended Bottom panel in place, I had to design two clips interfaces blocks so that I could reuse the bottom magnetic clips from [Hernsl's "Bottom_panel_mag_clip Mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hernsl/bottom_panel_mag_clip).
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Here is a video Tour:
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@ -36,15 +36,15 @@ Here is a video Tour:
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Since I knew I needed more space I started to search by looking at the CAD models of all the different Voron 3D printer models. I also knew that I would need to learn Fusion 360, if I wanted to design this mod.
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I watched some Youtube videos from [Lars Christensen](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVtzuj7_F9g), and bravely went down this road. After a couple of days my hands started to hurt so I look into buying a [space mouse](https://3dconnexion.com/uk/product/spacemouse-wireless/). A space mouse allows you to turn the Fusion 360 model like you are holding the part in your own hands.
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I watched some YouTube videos from [Lars Christensen](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVtzuj7_F9g), and bravely went down this road. After a couple of days my hands started to hurt, so I look into buying a [space mouse](https://3dconnexion.com/uk/product/spacemouse-wireless/). A space mouse allows you to turn the Fusion 360 model like you are holding the part in your own hands.
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Before I bought the space mouse, I converted by free license for Fusion 360 into a subscription license. After doing this I uploaded all the Voron printer models and start to look around.
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On the Voron 1.8 there is a back pack electronic case that holds the DC electronics. I decide to start with this item and develop my "Litter Box" Mod from it.
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On the Voron 1.8 there is a backpack electronic case that holds the DC electronics. I decide to start with this item and develop my "Litter Box" Mod from it.
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On the Voron 1.8 the back pack electronic case is inside the frame of the printer. My litter box will be on the outside of the frame. On the Voron 1.8 back pack electronics do not have compressor feet because the feet are actually on the end of the extrusion (a 3D printed part).
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On the Voron 1.8 the backpack electronic case is inside the frame of the printer. My litter box will be on the outside of the frame. On the Voron 1.8 backpack electronics do not have compressor feet because the feet are actually on the end of the extrusion (a 3D printed part).
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So I decide to replace the Voron 1.8 back pack electronic case feet with mirror images of the upper support brakets.
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So I decide to replace the Voron 1.8 backpack electronic case feet with mirror images of the upper support brakets.
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To attach the DIN rails to the back of the machine I found the [hijax_pl's din_rail_mount - the angled DIN mount version](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hijax_pl/din_rail_mount). After doing the first through 4th revisions of the Litter Box Mod, I finally decided to check out the DIN mounts from the Trident model. After I saw how the Trident version of DIN mounting looked, I started to use and design items that would utilize the Trident DIN mounting system.
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@ -52,43 +52,43 @@ So, my brackets that hold the DIN rail to the back of the Voron printer first us
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Since I did not want to drill a lot of holes in my Coraplast panels for the top/near_bottom and the two side panels of the Litter Box, I decided not to make a curvy version of the DIN mount. I keeped it in a block shape. That way when all the support brackets are installed the brackets have the same height. The panel for the sides are the same. The Top is the same as the near_bottom except the near_bottom panel has an oval slot shape cut out so that you can pass wires from the bottom elctronics case up to the Litter box on the back of the printer. At this time, I do not plan on installing the near_bottom panel because I need to mount WAGO nuts on the extrusions and the near_bottom panel will hit the WAGo nuts. Since I added an extended Bottom panel the near_bottom panel is really not needed.
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I first tackled the Corner Support brackets. I knew I wanted to design for different Back Panel thicknesses. My mod has three versions (3mm, 4mm and 6mm).
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I first tackled the Corner Support brackets. I knew I wanted to design for different Back Panel thicknesses. My mod has three versions (3 mm, 4 mm and 6 mm).
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The Corner Support Brackets from the Voron 1.8 attach to a vertical extursion from the inside side of the frame. The litter box has to hang off the back so I do not have access to the inside of the extrusion unless I cut holes in the Voron 2.4 Back panel.
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The Corner Support Brackets from the Voron 1.8 attach to a vertical extursion from the inside side of the frame. The litter box has to hang off the back, so I do not have access to the inside of the extrusion unless I cut holes in the Voron 2.4 Back panel.
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I decide that I did not want to cut holes in the Voron 2.4 Back Panel. So I added to the DIN mounting bracket. The 4 Corner Support Brackets are integrated into the DIN Mounting Brackets. I designed to use three (3) M2x20 Socket Head Screws (which have counterbore holes for the M2 screw head) and I designed to use M2 heat set inserts to secure the DIN mount bracket to the Corner Support Bracket.
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The M2 heat set inserts will be placed inside the 4 Coroner Support Brackets. The M2 heat set insets you will need to buy can be purchased from [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232858343.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.dcd44c4dya58ZN) - the recommended vendor from the Voron 2.4 sourcing guide. Buy the "M2 X D4.0 X L5.0" version of the M2 heat set inserts. I suppose you can use any M2 heat set insert as long as it is not wider than 4mm and longer the 5mm.
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The M2 heat set inserts will be placed inside the 4 Coroner Support Brackets. The M2 heat set insets you will need to buy can be purchased from [AliExpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232858343.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.dcd44c4dya58ZN) - the recommended vendor from the Voron 2.4 sourcing guide. Buy the "M2 X D4.0 X L5.0" version of the M2 heat set inserts. I suppose you can use any M2 heat set insert as long as it is not wider than 4 mm and longer the 5 mm.
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The M2x20 Socket Head Screws can be purchased anywhere. I bought from [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/3366) but you can easily use ones from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4MG7TC).
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The M2x20 Socket Head Screws can be purchased anywhere. I bought from [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/3366), but you can easily use ones from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4MG7TC).
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I could not use M3 screw because the holes were too big for the design I started off with. I first created a DIN bracket that had a slot built into the bracket to allow the Coraplast panel to slide into the slot. But after examining the bracket design, I opted to remove the slot to make the DIN bracket stronger. It is more important that the DIN mounts are solid and can hold the electronics board, PSU and DIN rail to the back panel.
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I could not use M3 screw because the holes were too big for the design I started off with. Furthermore, I first created a DIN bracket that had a slot built into the bracket to allow the Coraplast panel to slide into the slot. But after examining the bracket design, I opted to remove the slot to make the DIN bracket stronger. It is more important that the DIN mounts are solid and can hold the electronics board, PSU and DIN rail to the back panel.
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But since I started out with a slotted DIN mount, I designed using M2 screws because the M3 screws would not fit. I suppose if someone wanted to mod my mod you could create an M3 version but M2x20 screws are not hard to come by.
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The next issue in my design arose when I noticed that the Side Panel would stick out on either side of the extrusion. So when you looked from the front of the printer you would ask yourself, "what is that black plastic in the middle of the back of the printer?". I decided to offset the Corner Support brackets so that the Litter Box could not be seen from the front of the Voron 2.4.
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The next issue to arise was the back skirt. It was sitting below the litter box but under the litter box. I wanted the back skirt to be flush with the back panel of the litter box. So the problem was how to extend the skirt? I remebered that I read some talk about the Voron 2.4 300mm³ printer's sit heavily on the back two feet of the printer. So my next concern was would the printer tilt over with the Litter Box on the back? To solve the extended skirt and the possibility of tilting I decided to create two dummy Z drive/feet combos (basically creating two new feet). These dummy Z drive feet look like the real Z drives but they are just made out of 3D printed plastic. This way you can match the feet up if you want. Since I am using the [Edwardyeeks' "V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod) and [Spaghetti-Bolognese's "Z Driver System Mods"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Spaghetti-Bolognese/Z_drive_motor_mount) combo on my printer, I choose to just stick with the Voron 2.4 original Z drive feet. This way if you choose not to do the Z driver mods the feet will all match. By adding two feet and using the Z Drive block the "side extended skirt" is created.
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The next issue to arise was the back skirt. It was sitting below the litter box but under the litter box. I wanted the back skirt to be flush with the back panel of the litter box. So the problem was how to extend the skirt? I remebered that I read some talk about the Voron 2.4 300 mm³ printer's sit heavily on the back two feet of the printer. So my next concern was would the printer tilt over with the Litter Box on the back? To solve the extended skirt and the possibility of tilting I decided to create two dummy Z drive/feet combos (basically creating two new feet). These dummy Z drive feet look like the real Z drives, but they are just made out of 3D printed plastic. This way you can match the feet up if you want. Since I am using the [Edwardyeeks' "V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod) and [Spaghetti-Bolognese's "Z Driver System Mods"](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Spaghetti-Bolognese/Z_drive_motor_mount) combo on my printer, I choose to just stick with the Voron 2.4 original Z drive feet. This way if you choose not to do the Z driver mods the feet will all match. By adding two feet and using the Z Drive block the "side extended skirt" is created.
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So now I needed to design a way to mount the back skirt (the same one you would normally use) to the bottom of the Litter Box. Since the Litter Box uses only 2020 extrusions that was really not a problem.
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The Litter Box uses the following 2020 extrusions lengths:
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Take the Frame Width for your build size (for me 250mm³ my frame width is 410mm) and subtract 56mm to obtain the Top and Bottom extrusion length needed for the Litter Box. To find the length of the Side 2020 extrusions take your frame width and subtract 182mm.
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Take the Frame Width for your build size (for me 250 mm³ my frame width is 410 mm) and subtract 56 mm to obtain the Top and Bottom extrusion length needed for the Litter Box. To find the length of the Side 2020 extrusions take your frame width and subtract 182 mm.
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So for my 250mm³ build I will need the following 2020 extrusions:
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So for my 250 mm³ build I will need the following 2020 extrusions:
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1. Top/Bottom 2020 Extrusion (frame width - 56mm) Length = 354mm
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1. Top/Bottom 2020 Extrusion (frame width - 56 mm) Length = 354 mm
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2. Two Side 2020 Extrusions (rame width - 182mm) Lenght = 228mm
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2. Two Side 2020 Extrusions (rame width - 182 mm) Lenght = 228 mm
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The Coraplast panels are 4mm thick (or what ever material you want to use, I plan on carbon fiber panels after I test out the Coraplast panels) dimensions can be calculated as follows:
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The Coraplast panels are 4 mm thick (or what ever material you want to use, I plan on carbon fiber panels after I test out the Coraplast panels) dimensions can be calculated as follows:
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The height of the Top/Bottom Panels, the height of the Right/Left Side Panels, the height of the Front Panel and the width of the Right/Left Side Panels will stay the same for all build sizes. The only dimension that will change is the distance between your two back vertical extrusions which will only effect the Top/Bottom width and the Front Panel width:
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The height of the Top/Bottom Panels, the height of the Right/Left Side Panels, the height of the Front Panel and the width of the Right/Left Side Panels will stay the same for all build sizes. The only dimension that will change is the distance between your two back vertical extrusions which will only affect the Top/Bottom width and the Front Panel width:
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Top/Bottom Coraplast panels' dimensions for the Litter Box Mod:
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Height = 93mm
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Height = 93 mm
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Width = (frame width - 53.5)
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Left/Right Side Coraplast Panels' dimensions for the Litter Box Mod:
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@ -101,38 +101,38 @@ Front Coraplast Panel's dimensions for Litter Box Mod:
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Height = 242 mm
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Width = (frame width - 55.5)
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There are cut outs that need to be made for the front panel, I need to do the drawing for this panel. I will publish it here when I get it done. I will do it in .dxf format and .pdf format. I will even create a .svg file for it.
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There are cut-outs that need to be made for the front panel, I need to do the drawing for this panel. I will publish it here when I get it done. I will do it in .dxf format and .pdf format. Furthermore, I will even create a .svg file for it.
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So for **my 250mm³ QUEEN Build** I will use the following dimensions for my Coraplast panels:
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So for **my 250 mm³ QUEEN Build** I will use the following dimensions for my Coraplast panels:
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Top/Bottom Coraplast Panels dimensions for the Litter Box Mod on a 250mm³ Voron 2.4 Build:
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Top/Bottom Coraplast Panels dimensions for the Litter Box Mod on a 250 mm³ Voron 2.4 Build:
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Height = 93mm
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Width = (frame width {410} - 53.5) = 356.5mm
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Height = 93 mm
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Width = (frame width {410} - 53.5) = 356.5 mm
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Left/Right Side Coraplast Panels' dimensions for the Litter Box Mod on a 250mm³ Voron 2.4 Build:
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Left/Right Side Coraplast Panels' dimensions for the Litter Box Mod on a 250 mm³ Voron 2.4 Build:
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Height = 242 mm
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Width = 75.5 mm
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Front Coraplast Panel's dimensions for Litter Box Mod on a 250mm³ Voron 2.4 Build:
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Front Coraplast Panel's dimensions for Litter Box Mod on a 250 mm³ Voron 2.4 Build:
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Height = 242 mm
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Width = (frame width {410} - 55.5) = 354.5
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(BTW, you will notice that the width of the Front panel is only 2mm shorter than the Front Panel width = (Top/Bottom Width - 2mm))!
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(BTW, you will notice that the width of the Front panel is only 2 mm shorter than the Front Panel width = (Top/Bottom Width - 2 mm))!
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Back to what I was talking about, how did I mount the back skirt to the litter box mod? I wanted the height of the back skirt to be exactly as it is on the original Voron 2.4 printer. So I decided to create an "Interface Bar". The Height of this interface bar will change depending on how high you mount the Litter Box to the two back vertical extrusions. I choose to place the Litter Box as low as I could go on the back two vertical 2020 extrusions.
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So my mod fixes the Litter Box to be mounted at the bottom of the two back 2020 extrusions and my 3D model has it placed at that location.
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Since I decided on my mount location, I design the inteface bar (which is a 3D printed part). In the 3D model you see the word's VORON 2.4 V2.1234, I use the Interface Bar as a way to register your Voron serial number when you get one. So this part has lettering which will be printed with "VORON 2.4" and "V2.1234". You can reprint this part and remount it after you get your serial number.
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Since I decided on my mount location, I design the inteface bar (which is a 3D-printed part). In the 3D model you see the word's VORON 2.4 V2.1234, I use the Interface Bar as a way to register your Voron serial number when you get one. So this part has lettering which will be printed with "VORON 2.4" and "V2.1234". You can reprint this part and remount it after you get your serial number.
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The Interface Bar is just a block of plastic with a slotted hole, that allows the screw to pass through to the Litter Box Bottom 2020 extrusion. You will need to use longer M3 screw to mount your back skirt pieces but you will not have to reprint your back skirt peices. You just need to print the Interface Bar A/B and the Foot Interface A/B pieces.
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The Interface Bar is just a block of plastic with a slotted hole, that allows the screw to pass through to the Litter Box Bottom 2020 extrusion. You will need to use longer M3 screw to mount your back skirt pieces, but you will not have to reprint your back skirt peices. You just need to print the Interface Bar A/B and the Foot Interface A/B pieces.
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What is the Foot Interface A/B piece. The Foot Interface is how the two dummy feet get mounted to the Bottom 2020 extrusion of the Voron 2.4 printer. The Foot Interface A/B comes in three sizes to accomdate three different Voron 2.4 Back Panel thickness sizes (3mm, 4mm, and 6mm).
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What is the Foot Interface A/B piece. The Foot Interface is how the two dummy feet get mounted to the Bottom 2020 extrusion of the Voron 2.4 printer. The Foot Interface A/B comes in three sizes to accomdate three different Voron 2.4 Back Panel thickness sizes (3 mm, 4 mm, and 6 mm).
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Since the Litter Box does not cover the totallity of the Back Panel, I wanted the ability to move the electronics boards up or down from the DIN rail to help with wire routing. I ended up designing a sliding mounting system for the electronics. Basically a nut and bolt are used to the two sliding haves together and I have designed these mounts to accomodate as many of the Voron DIN clips as I could (Trident DIN clips and Voron 2.4 DIN clips)
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Since the Litter Box does not cover the totallity of the Back Panel, I wanted the ability to move the electronics boards up or down from the DIN rail to help with wire routing. I ended up designing a sliding mounting system for the electronics. Basically a nut and bolt are used to the two sliding haves together, and I have designed these mounts to accomodate as many of the Voron DIN clips as I could (Trident DIN clips and Voron 2.4 DIN clips)
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These new sliding mounts are listed under the Litter Box electronics mod. I also designed some stablizing arms for the UHP PSU models. The Stablizing arm is not bolted down to the PSU but stops the PSU from shifing horizontally.
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@ -145,9 +145,9 @@ Again, to download the PDF just click on the filename ["Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB_
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## A Picture of the "Litter Box" mod for QUEEN:
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|
||||
The "Litter Box" mod is a place to store all you good shit......LOL
|
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The "Litter Box" mod is a place to store all you good s..t......LOL
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|
||||
The name is a wink to RCF (a.k.a RussianCatFood).
|
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The name is a wink to RCF (a.k.a. RussianCatFood).
|
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|
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I also have posted two videos which give you a roatating view of the QUEEN 3D model. This is the 3D model I used
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to devleop the Litter Box.
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@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
|
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# This repositoy uses LFS extension
|
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# This repository uses LFS extension
|
||||
|
||||
```
|
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I use Git for Windows with VScode to manage this repository. I also use Git LFS extensions for all the files.
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@ -14,14 +14,14 @@ $ git clone https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log.git
|
||||
Press Enter to create your local clone.
|
||||
Now open Window explorer to the location of local clone.
|
||||
```
|
||||
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
|
||||
## This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google Drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
|
||||
|
||||
## xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
|
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|
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# Electronics Case Wiring Diagram for QUEEN (my Voron 2.4 build):
|
||||
|
||||
This repository contains JPG and PDF files for the electronics case for QUEEN. I am presently working on the "Fuctional Wiring Diagram" for my QUEEN Build. I am concurrently working on the "Real World" Electronics Case Diagram which will show you the actual routing of all the wires I will use for my QUEEN Build.
|
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This repository contains JPG and PDF files for the electronics case for QUEEN. I am presently working on the "Functional Wiring Diagram" for my QUEEN Build. I am concurrently working on the "Real World" Electronics Case Diagram which will show you the actual routing of all the wires I will use for my QUEEN Build.
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|
||||
---
|
||||
|
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@ -33,17 +33,17 @@ This repository contains JPG and PDF files for the electronics case for QUEEN.
|
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|
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## Fusion 360 CAD files and STEP files:
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|
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I have spent 3 months creating the 3D model of my QUEEN Voron 2.4 250mm³ build.
|
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I have spent 3 months creating the 3D model of my QUEEN Voron 2.4 250 mm³ build.
|
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|
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I have used the CAD models from each MOD (listed below) and incorporated the respective MOD's CAD model into my QUEEN Fusion 360 model. After working in Fusion 360 for the past 3 months I have become aware of a couple of things:
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1. When exporting sub-Assemblies from Fusion 360 in .STEP format the only sub-assemblies that get put into the STEP file are the sub-assemblies that are visable at the time the exported STEP file is created. So when you use STEP files expect all the sub-assemblies to be visable when you first open up the STEP file. You will have to turn off the options that you do not want to see after you upload the STEP file to Fusion 360 (or your CAD software).
|
||||
1. When exporting sub-Assemblies from Fusion 360 in .STEP format the only sub-assemblies that get put into the STEP file are the sub-assemblies that are visible at the time the exported STEP file is created. So when you use STEP files expect all the sub-assemblies to be visible when you first open up the STEP file. You will have to turn off the options that you do not want to see after you upload the STEP file to Fusion 360 (or your CAD software).
|
||||
|
||||
2. If a MOD did not have a Fusion 360 CAD model, I used the .stl files from the MOD and used Fusion 360 to convert the .stl files into parametric bodies.
|
||||
|
||||
3. If you upload .f3d sub-Assembly file and all sub-assembly options are turn on, then please just turn off the sub-assemblies you do not want to see. Sometimes, I exported the .STEP files at the same time I was creating the .f3d files, so I might have left options turned on so I could save the .STEP file.
|
||||
3. If you upload .f3d sub-Assembly file and all sub-assembly options are turn on, then please just turn off the sub-assemblies you do not want to see. Sometimes, I exported the .STEP files at the same time I was creating the .f3d files, so I might have left options turned on, so I could save the .STEP file.
|
||||
|
||||
4. I have noticed that if one uses the "save a copy as ..." option that parts will loose their postion (x,y,z). So to create the sub-assemblies I did a "copy" to the clip board and then placed the clip board contents into a new file and saved that file.
|
||||
4. I have noticed that if one uses the "save a copy as ..." option that parts will lose their position (x,y,z). So to create the sub-assemblies I did a "copy" to the clip board and then placed the clip board contents into a new file and saved that file.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
GadgetAngel's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 CAD model (.f3d) and (.STEP) files:
|
||||
@ -86,9 +86,9 @@ The full model for QUEEN has a fusion 360 (.f3d) file and STEP file. The STEP f
|
||||
|
||||
## .STL list of files needed for each MOD:
|
||||
|
||||
I will be publishing a folder of .stl files for all the printed parts I am using for my QUEEN build, including the ones from my PIF parts ~~(comming soon)~~.
|
||||
I will be publishing a folder of .stl files for all the printed parts I am using for my QUEEN build, including the ones from my PIF parts ~~(coming soon)~~.
|
||||
|
||||
My intent is to list the files needed in each Sub-Assembly and indicate which ".stl files" need to be replaced or exchanged for a MODed ".stl" file. I think an [EXCEL spreadsheet would help with this task and can be found here](../The_.STL_Files/Excel_Spreadsheet_.stl_files).
|
||||
My intent is to list the files needed in each Sub-Assembly and indicate which ".stl files" need to be replaced or exchanged for a Modded ".stl" file. I think an [EXCEL spreadsheet would help with this task and can be found here](../The_.STL_Files/Excel_Spreadsheet_.stl_files).
|
||||
|
||||
The [".STL" files for my QUEEN Voron 2.4 build can be found here](../The_.STL_Files/Copy_of_.STLs_forQUEEN_As_Built_will-not-be-updated)
|
||||
|
||||
@ -97,65 +97,65 @@ The [".STL" files for my QUEEN Voron 2.4 build can be found here](../The_.STL_Fi
|
||||
## Lesson Learned while doing the "Electronics Case Wiring Diagram" for QUEEN:
|
||||
|
||||
I finished the AC wiring diagram for the QUEEN build today. From doing the wiring diagram
|
||||
I determined that I needed to make some adjustements in my power supplies and do more work with the 3D model layout.
|
||||
I determined that I needed to make some adjustments in my power supplies and do more work with the 3D model layout.
|
||||
|
||||
I have decided to split the Wiring Diagram for my Voron 2.4 printer up into two wiring diagrams: "AC Electrical Wiring Diagram" and "DC Electrical Wiring Diagram".
|
||||
|
||||
The "DC Electrical Wiring Diagram" will show how to setup the Octopus Pro board and all the DC wiring not included in the "Wiring Harness Diagram" like LEDs, fans, DC light switches and so on. I will work on this one next.
|
||||
The "DC Electrical Wiring Diagram" will show how to set up the Octopus Pro board and all the DC wiring not included in the "Wiring Harness Diagram" like LEDs, fans, DC light switches and so on. I will work on this one next.
|
||||
|
||||
The first draft of the "AC Electrical Wiring Diagram" is done and is now being published. I still might need to make changes to it once I start working on the DC wiring diagram. Please remember this whole repository is a "Work in progress" because I still have not finished building my Voron 2.4 printer. I have all the building material but I want to document how I will be interconnecting all the modules before I start putting things together.
|
||||
The first draft of the "AC Electrical Wiring Diagram" is done and is now being published. I still might need to make changes to it once I start working on the DC wiring diagram. Please remember this whole repository is a "Work in progress" because I still have not finished building my Voron 2.4 printer. I have all the building material, but I want to document how I will be interconnecting all the modules before I start putting things together.
|
||||
|
||||
### Requirements for my Voron 2.4 printer build
|
||||
|
||||
One of the requirements for my Voron 2.4 printer is that I want to be able to reboot the Voron 2.4 printer without requiring a reboot of Mainsail or Fluidd (the Raspberry Pi) along with the printer's motherboard and power supplies. To accomplish this goal, I have decided that my Raspberry Pi will always remain powererd up. It can be shut down through the BIG RED mushroom button but typically it will always be turned on while the Voron 2.4 printer may not be turned on.
|
||||
One of the requirements for my Voron 2.4 printer is that I want to be able to reboot the Voron 2.4 printer without requiring a reboot of Mainsail or Fluidd (the Raspberry Pi) along with the printer's motherboard and power supplies. To accomplish this goal, I have decided that my Raspberry Pi will always remain powered up. It can be shut down through the BIG RED mushroom button, but typically it will always be turned on while the Voron 2.4 printer may not be turned on.
|
||||
|
||||
I also want to use some extra features with my Voron 2.4 printer, like, filament runout sensor, filament jam detection, automtic shutdown after print job has finished, and resume 3D print after power failure.
|
||||
I also want to use some extra features with my Voron 2.4 printer, like, filament runout sensor, filament jam detection, automatic shutdown after print job has finished, and resume 3D print after power failure.
|
||||
|
||||
The filament runout sensor and filament jam detection will be looked at when I do the DC wiring diagram for the electronic case (which I will be working on next). The "automatic shutdown after print job has finished" and "resume 3D print after power failure" features needed to be looked at while doing the AC electrical wiring.
|
||||
|
||||
These two features have been incorporated into the AC electrical wiring diagram. I am using BTT's relay V1.2 to perform the "automatic shutdown after print finishes" feature ~~and I am using BTT's UPS module to perform the "resume 3D print after power failure" feature.~~ I also added in another set of relays to allow the Raspberry Pi to remotely shutdown the Voron 2.4 printer (along with the PSU, except for the PSU that supplies 5VDC power for the Raspberry Pi). I also have a mechanical Hour-counter and Engergy Meter incorporated in the front and side skirt of my Voron 2.4 printer that I need to control. The Energy Meter will always be on when the Voron 2.4 printer is powered up (it is located on the right-hand side of my printer). The mechanical Hour-Counter will only run when the Voron 2.4 printer is actually producing a 3D part and is located on the front skirt. This way I can see the number of actual hours of print time. This Hour-Counter runs through a relay so I can control when it is turned on.
|
||||
These two features have been incorporated into the AC electrical wiring diagram. I am using BTT's relay V1.2 to perform the "automatic shutdown after print finishes" feature~~, and I am using BTT's UPS module to perform the "resume 3D print after power failure" feature.~~ I also added in another set of relays to allow the Raspberry Pi to remotely shut down the Voron 2.4 printer (along with the PSU, except for the PSU that supplies 5VDC power for the Raspberry Pi). I also have a mechanical Hour-counter and Engergy Meter incorporated in the front and side skirt of my Voron 2.4 printer that I need to control. The Energy Meter will always be on when the Voron 2.4 printer is powered up (it is located on the right-hand side of my printer). The mechanical Hour-Counter will only run when the Voron 2.4 printer is actually producing a 3D part and is located on the front skirt. This way I can see the number of actual hours of print time. This Hour-Counter runs through a relay, so I can control when it is turned on.
|
||||
|
||||
The BTT's V1.2 are relays that are normally opened (NO) so when I added my additional relay I needed to ensure that I could configure it to be NO or NC. The relay that controls the Hour-counter is NO type of relay.
|
||||
|
||||
I also want the capability to use momentary switches on the left-hand side and right-hand side of my printer to power up or down the Voron 2.4. These momentary switches are active low and are hardwired directly into the relays so that software is not needed to control them. I call these my "hardware reboot switches". These switches will only reboot the Voron 2.4 (not the Raspberry Pi). The switch that is on the back of the Voron 2.4 will reboot both the Raspberry Pi and the Voron 2.4 printer. I will also mount a "mini Red push button (momentary switch)" to one of the keyholes on the Voron 2.4 skirt which allows me to reboot the Voron 2.4 printer via the BTT's V1.2 relay modules.
|
||||
I also want the capability to use momentary switches on the left-hand side and right-hand side of my printer to power up or down the Voron 2.4. These momentary switches are active low and are hardwired directly into the relays so that software is not needed to control them. I call these "hardware reboot switches". These switches will only reboot the Voron 2.4 (not the Raspberry Pi). The switch that is on the back of the Voron 2.4 will reboot both the Raspberry Pi and the Voron 2.4 printer. I will also mount a "mini Red push button (momentary switch)" to one of the keyholes on the Voron 2.4 skirt which allows me to reboot the Voron 2.4 printer via the BTT's V1.2 relay modules.
|
||||
|
||||
Since I want the Raspberry Pi to be "alway ON", I need to buy another 5V power supply. I decided to remove the UHP-200-12 PSU and replace that unit with a PSU that is two PSUs in one unit. I bought a Meanwell RD-50A PSU which has a 5VDC PSU (@ 6 Amps) and 12VDC PSU (@ 2Amps) in one metal box. Since the Stealthburner has been realeased as a beta, I have added it to my Voron 2.4 printer and ended up switching all my LEDs from 12VDC to 5VDC. I will be using Adafruit Neopixels LEDs only and they only work at 5 Volts. So I down sized my 12V supply and doubled my 5V power supply.
|
||||
Since I want the Raspberry Pi to be "alway ON", I need to buy another 5V power supply. I decided to remove the UHP-200-12 PSU and replace that unit with a PSU that is two PSUs in one unit. I bought a Meanwell RD-50A PSU which has a 5VDC PSU (@ 6 Amps) and 12VDC PSU (@ 2Amps) in one metal box. Since the Stealthburner has been realeased as a beta, I have added it to my Voron 2.4 printer and ended up switching all my LEDs from 12VDC to 5VDC. I will be using Adafruit Neopixels LEDs only, and they only work at 5 Volts. So I downsized my 12V supply and doubled my 5V power supply.
|
||||
|
||||
The Meanwell RS-25-5 will be the power supply that always remains on and is attached to the external UPS [APC 1500VA UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector, BX1500M Power Supply](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM) along with Voron 2.4 printer. I am using a "BIG RED" button or mushroom button between the APC UPS unit and the power input (filtered power inlet) for the Voron 2.4 printer. I have added this for saftey reasons. The mushroom box assembly will have a long power cord so I can place it where ever I want. I also have smoke detector located above the 3D printer.
|
||||
The Meanwell RS-25-5 will be the power supply that always remains on and is attached to the external UPS [APC 1500VA UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector, BX1500M Power Supply](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM) along with Voron 2.4 printer. I am using a "BIG RED" button or mushroom button between the APC UPS unit and the power input (filtered power inlet) for the Voron 2.4 printer. I have added this for saftey reasons. The mushroom box assembly will have a long power cord, so I can place it where ever I want. I also have smoke detector located above the 3D printer.
|
||||
|
||||
In my AC wiring diagram you will see things like "grounding straps" and "Ferrite core filters". These are present to help reduce cross talk.
|
||||
|
||||
Logically I have 5 power supplies, two 5V PSU, one 12V PSU, one 24V PSU and one 48V PSU. One PSU combines two of these into one PSU (Meanwell RD-50A combines a 5V PSU and 12V PSU into one PSU).
|
||||
|
||||
In the AC electrical wiring diagram some of the lines are thicker than the others. I did this on purpose so that you will automatically recognize the AC lines from the DC lines. The AC lines are thicker and are distributed using UK2.5 terminal blocks (or Dinkle DK4N termainal blocks). The DC lines are thin and use WAGO nuts for distrubution blocks.
|
||||
In the AC electrical wiring diagram some lines are thicker than the others. I did this on purpose so that you will automatically recognize the AC lines from the DC lines. The AC lines are thicker and are distributed using UK2.5 terminal blocks (or Dinkle DK4N termainal blocks). The DC lines are thin and use WAGO nuts for distrubution blocks.
|
||||
|
||||
Since the Raspberry Pi is a 3.3V logic device, I use [3.6V Zener Diodes](https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-34-Values-Zener-Assorted/dp/B07BTWBXJ3) for over voltage protection on the Raspberry Pi's GPIO lines when using a 5VDC power supply for the 4-channel relay module to activate the relay's coils. Even tho my AC wiring diagram shows I will be using a 4-channel relay module, I might only install a one channel relay module. The resons for going to one channel is that I do not need a 4-channel relay module and I have a one channel relay module sitting in a drawer.
|
||||
Since the Raspberry Pi is a 3.3V logic device, I use [3.6V Zener Diodes](https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-34-Values-Zener-Assorted/dp/B07BTWBXJ3) for overvoltage protection on the Raspberry Pi's GPIO lines when using a 5VDC power supply for the 4-channel relay module to activate the relay's coils. Even tho my AC wiring diagram shows I will be using a 4-channel relay module, I might only install a one channel relay module. The resons for going to one channel is that I do not need a 4-channel relay module and I have a one channel relay module sitting in a drawer.
|
||||
|
||||
Below you will find the JPG and the PDF files for the "Voron 2.4 AC Electrical Wiring Diagram".
|
||||
|
||||
After finding a [schematic diagram of the BTT relay V1.2 from a russian website](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/BTT%20Relay%20V1.2%20Schematic.pdf) I have become aware that I can control the PSUs with the Raspberry Pi via the BTT Relay V1.2 modules without the use of a second relay module. Therefore the secondary relay module will only control the mechanical Hour-Counter. I have updated my AC Electrical Wiring Diagram to reflect this change.
|
||||
After finding a [schematic diagram of the BTT relay V1.2 from a russian website](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/BTT%20Relay%20V1.2%20Schematic.pdf) I have become aware that I can control the PSUs with the Raspberry Pi via the BTT Relay V1.2 modules without the use of a second relay module. Therefore, the secondary relay module will only control the mechanical Hour-Counter. I have updated my AC Electrical Wiring Diagram to reflect this change.
|
||||
|
||||
After a discussion in the Voron discord channel with other more experienced Voron users the following question arose: "Does the Voron 2.4 printer even have the capacity to resume print? If the Gantry sags at all it won't, since you wouldn't be able to perform QGL with a buildplate already occupied.". Due to this fact using the BTT UPS modules is now out since I will not be able to get the flying gantery back to where it needs to be to resume a print. I will be removing the "resume after power failure" as a requirement for my Voron 2.4 printer.
|
||||
|
||||
Also another Voron user found an error in my first AC wiring diagram. I forgot to tie all my V- (DC negative voltage) terminals together to establish a common voltage reference between different power supplies. The revised AC wiring diagram now has the V- terminals all tied together.
|
||||
Also, another Voron user found an error in my first AC wiring diagram. I forgot to tie all my V- (DC negative voltage) terminals together to establish a common voltage reference between different power supplies. The revised AC wiring diagram now has the V- terminals all tied together.
|
||||
|
||||
1/9/2022:
|
||||
|
||||
Ok, folks I have some explaining to do. But be aware that now I will be discussing **TWO** different Voron 2.4 printer builds in this build log.
|
||||
|
||||
I was watching the build of the Voron 2.4 LDO kit on [@Steve Builds](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8VsL6u5PiOgy6n4I4b4Ufw) and have been very very impressed with the LDO kit. So after discussng my options with my husband we decided that the best route forward for me is to buy the LDO kit and build the LDO 300mm³ build. I still planning on building the 250mm³ QUEEN build but to build QUEEN I need a work horse 3D printer that prints ABS really well.
|
||||
I was watching the build of the Voron 2.4 LDO kit on [@Steve Builds](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8VsL6u5PiOgy6n4I4b4Ufw) and have been very impressed with the LDO kit. So after discussng my options with my husband we decided that the best route forward for me is to buy the LDO kit and build the LDO 300 mm³ build. I'm still planning on building the 250 mm³ QUEEN build but to build QUEEN I need a work horse 3D printer that prints ABS really well.
|
||||
|
||||
Now you are thinking that is nuts. Not really! I added up the cost of just getting the 3D printed parts done by a commerical vendor and the cost is over $5,000. So the cost of the LDO kit is only $1,350. So instead of paying someone else to print the QUEEN ABS parts I will get a new Voron 2.4 LDO 300mm³ Build which I will call "Voron_LDO" and print the ABS parts for QUEEN myself on the Voron_LDO printer. This way I get more experience with the printer profiles. I will also be able to print the modified parts and test them out.
|
||||
Now you are thinking that is nuts. Not really! I added up the cost of just getting the 3D printed parts done by a commerical vendor and the cost is over $5,000. So the cost of the LDO kit is only $1,350. So instead of paying someone else to print the QUEEN ABS parts I will get a new Voron 2.4 LDO 300 mm³ Build which I will call "Voron_LDO" and print the ABS parts for QUEEN myself on the Voron_LDO printer. This way I get more experience with the printer profiles. I will also be able to print the modified parts and test them out.
|
||||
|
||||
I will also have another printer that I can modifiy once the QUEEN build is finished.
|
||||
|
||||
I like to think of this rationalization as a way to boot strap my Voron printer experience. Wink Wink.
|
||||
Furthermore, I like to think of this rationalization as a way to bootstrap my Voron printer experience. Wink Wink.
|
||||
|
||||
1/11/2022:
|
||||
|
||||
I am still working on the DC wiring Diagram for the QUEEN build. Here is what I am trying to figure out right now.
|
||||
|
||||
I have bought a [ERCF v1.1 moster kit - 6 chart version](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/enraged-rabbit-carrot-feeder-v1-1-monster-kit?variant=41260783534249) because I will someday print out the parts and but it together to do multi-material printing.
|
||||
I have bought a [ERCF v1.1 moster kit - 6 chart version](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/enraged-rabbit-carrot-feeder-v1-1-monster-kit?variant=41260783534249) because I will someday print out the parts and put it together to do multi-material printing.
|
||||
|
||||
When planning the QUEEN build I want to ensure that the parts I use for the X-Axis and the toolhead will accomodate the ERCF v1.1. The ERCF adds on additional equipment that the "ERCF Easy Board" will handle. The ["ERCF Easy Board"](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/ercf-ez-board) can be setup in Klipper as an additional MCU and that way the board's PIN definitions can be used.
|
||||
|
||||
@ -163,18 +163,18 @@ The reason I choose the [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board](https://deepfriedhero.
|
||||
|
||||
So now that I provided the background story, what am I confused about? Well, after reading the manual for the ["ERCF Easy Board"](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/ercf-ez-board) I learned that I have the following connections available:
|
||||
|
||||
On the [ERCF Easy Board, page 93, I see](http://nbviewer.jupyter.org/github/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject/blob/main/Documentation/ERCF_Manual.pdf#page=93):
|
||||
On the [ERCF Easy Board, page 93, I see](http://nbviewer.jupyter.org/github/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject/blob/main/Documentation/ERCF_Manual.pdf#page=93):
|
||||
|
||||
1. "Servo";
|
||||
2. "Selector Motor";
|
||||
3. "Gear Motor";
|
||||
|
||||
On the [ERCF Easy Board, page 94, I see](http://nbviewer.jupyter.org/github/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject/blob/main/Documentation/ERCF_Manual.pdf#page=94):
|
||||
On the [ERCF Easy Board, page 94, I see](http://nbviewer.jupyter.org/github/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject/blob/main/Documentation/ERCF_Manual.pdf#page=94):
|
||||
|
||||
4. "Selector Endstop";
|
||||
5. "Encoder";
|
||||
|
||||
Besides the ERCF prep for the QUEEN build, I also want to prep QUEEN for the Voron Stealthburner fan assembly. To use the LEDs on the Stealthburner we need a Data PIN on the Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board along with GND and 5VDC to power the Neopixel LEDs. The [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) will work only if you are running stock endstop pod, and you need to run [Klicky_Probe](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe) (which we are). Therefore @Hartk1213 says that the following, hookup should be used:
|
||||
Besides the ERCF prep for the QUEEN build, I also want to prep QUEEN for the Voron Stealthburner fan assembly. To use the LEDs on the Stealthburner we need a Data PIN on the Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board along with GND and 5VDC to power the Neopixel LEDs. The [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) will work only if you are running stock endstop pod, and you need to run [Klicky_Probe](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe) (which we are). Therefore, @Hartk1213 says that the following, hookup should be used:
|
||||
|
||||
```
|
||||
Klicky --- XES header
|
||||
@ -189,9 +189,9 @@ I see now, the "Filament Sensor" is the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor that is
|
||||
|
||||
I plan on using the Bondtech LGX extruder instead of the clockwork1 (CW1) extruder. So I think from typing this all out I now understand how the connections all work.
|
||||
|
||||
I need to ensure that for the QUEEN build the correct LGX part is being used. It has to be the 3D part from the ERCF projocet so I can install the [AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AH3364Q.pdf) and run it at 24VDC.
|
||||
I need to ensure that for the QUEEN build the correct LGX part is being used. It has to be the 3D part from the ERCF projocet, so I can install the [AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AH3364Q.pdf) and run it at 24VDC.
|
||||
|
||||
1. Then I can use the "ABL Header" on the [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) to connect up the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" which is built-in to the [LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor.stl](https://github.com/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject/blob/main/Filament_Sensor/Stls/LGX/LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor.stl) 3D printed part.
|
||||
1. Then I can use the "ABL Header" on the [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) to connect up the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" which is built-in to the [LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor.stl](https://github.com/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject/blob/main/Filament_Sensor/Stls/LGX/LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor.stl) 3D printed part.
|
||||
|
||||
BTW, I renamed the file to "LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor_fromERCFproj.stl".
|
||||
|
||||
@ -199,11 +199,11 @@ BTW, I renamed the file to "LGX_on_AfterBurner_Adapter_ERCF_Sensor_fromERCFproj.
|
||||
|
||||
3. Connect the Neopixel LEDs for the Stealthburner fan assembly to [Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board's](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-afterburner-toolhead-board-v3-rabbit) "FS" connector.
|
||||
|
||||
and
|
||||
And
|
||||
|
||||
4. I connect "Servo", "Selector Motor", "Gear Motor", "Selector Endstop" and "Encoder", not to the Octopus Pro board, but to the ["ERCF Easy Board"](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/ercf-ez-board) which uses a "Seeeduino XIAO" processor which talks to the Raspberry Pi 4B board via USB connection (USB-C on Seeeduino XIAO to USB-2.0 on the raspberry pi).
|
||||
4. I connect "Servo", "Selector Motor", "Gear Motor", "Selector Endstop" and "Encoder", not to the Octopus Pro board, but to the ["ERCF Easy Board"](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/ercf-ez-board) which uses a "Seeeduino XIAO" processor which talks to the Raspberry Pi 4B board via USB connection (USB-C on Seeeduino XIAO to USB-2.0 on the Raspberry Pi).
|
||||
|
||||
The Seeeduino XIAO microcontroller and sensors are powered through the USB C cable from the RaspberryPi USB port while the stepper motor drivers are powered by the ERCF Easy Board's PSU (12/24V) on-board connector.
|
||||
The Seeeduino XIAO microcontroller and sensors are powered through the USB-C cable from the RaspberryPi USB port while the stepper motor drivers are powered by the ERCF Easy Board's PSU (12/24V) on-board connector.
|
||||
|
||||
So all the connection on the ERCF Easy Board will send data to the rapberry pi via USB.
|
||||
|
||||
@ -213,7 +213,7 @@ So all the connection on the ERCF Easy Board will send data to the rapberry pi v
|
||||
|
||||
2. Built-in "(AH3364Q-P-B) Hall effect sensor" for the LGX_ERCF part connected to the "ABL" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the "Probe" connector on the Octopus Pro board with the "Probe Voltage Select" header's Jumper {on the Octopus Pro board} set on the pins that select 24VDC (or the Board's Vᵢₙ).
|
||||
|
||||
* Also on the Octopus Pro board ensure the Jumper on the "Probe Type Select" header is **REMOVED** so that PNP type is used for the "Probe" connector. The datasheet on the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" states the following:
|
||||
* Also, on the Octopus Pro board ensure the Jumper on the "Probe Type Select" header is **REMOVED** so that PNP type is used for the "Probe" connector. The datasheet on the "AH3364Q-P-B Hall effect sensor" states the following:
|
||||
|
||||
```
|
||||
The single open drain output can be switched on with South pole of
|
||||
@ -238,17 +238,17 @@ A meter or two is usually no problem. Much longer and things can become unreliab
|
||||
```
|
||||
|
||||
On a Voron 2.4 the distance from the motherboard to the toolhead is over 2 meters which is above Adafruit's recommendation.
|
||||
So to accomodate this limitation one could place a single NeoPiexel half way down the wiring harness to the toolhead so that it acts as a repeater.
|
||||
So to accomodate this limitation one could place a single NeoPiexel halfway down the wiring harness to the toolhead so that it acts as a repeater.
|
||||
|
||||
On second thought, I want to have more than one strip of NeoPixels. I will have the individual NeoPixels for the Stealthburner but I plan on using NeoPixel stips on the sids panel and up in the top of the heated chamber. I also plan on putting a string underneath the printer (lights in the electronics compartment and in the litter box compartment). Since each Neopixel has its own address, I can use one data line for all these lights.
|
||||
On second thought, I want to have more than one strip of NeoPixels. I will have the individual NeoPixels for the Stealthburner, but I plan on using NeoPixel stips on the sids panel and up in the top of the heated chamber. I also plan on putting a string underneath the printer (lights in the electronics compartment and in the litter box compartment). Since each Neopixel has its own address, I can use one data line for all these lights.
|
||||
|
||||
So with all these Neopixels strings I will have plenty of NeoPixel repeaters in my Voron 2.4 printer QUEEN build. That will not be the case for my Voron 2.4 LDO build.
|
||||
|
||||
If for your build, you only want to attach the "Voron Stealthburner" Neopixel LEDs, than I would buy a couple extra single Neopixels LEDs and place them in the wiring harness at which ever location you want to act as a repeater for the Neopixel's on the toolhead (one extra single NeoPixel placed half way down the wiring harness will do the trick). This way the data line will be boasted and its signal level will not degrade so that the next Neopixel can correctly interpret the previous Neopixel's data transmission.
|
||||
If for your build, you only want to attach the "Voron Stealthburner" Neopixel LEDs, than I would buy a couple extra single Neopixels LEDs and place them in the wiring harness at which ever location you want to act as a repeater for the Neopixel's on the toolhead (one extra single NeoPixel placed halfway down the wiring harness will do the trick). This way the data line will be boasted, and its signal level will not degrade so that the next Neopixel can correctly interpret the previous Neopixel's data transmission.
|
||||
|
||||
The "FS" connector comming from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board has one wire that needs to be connected up on the Octopus Pro board (Data line for the Neopixel LED which will be using a 5 Volt logic level {not a 3.3 Volt logic level})
|
||||
|
||||
~~But first we must properly configure the "DRIVER_7" stepper motor socket. Ensure that "DRIVER_7" mode Jumpers are set for UART mode if the rest of the stepper motor driver sockets are configure for SPI mode. So if you are using the TMC5160_PRO drivers then "DRIVER_0", "DRIVER_1", "DRIVER_2", "DRIVER_3", "DRIVER_4", "DRIVER_5", and "DRIVER_6" will all be configured for SPI mode.~~
|
||||
~~But first we must properly configure the "DRIVER_7" stepper motor socket. Ensure that "DRIVER_7" mode Jumpers are set for UART mode if the rest of the stepper motor driver sockets are configured for SPI mode. So if you are using the TMC5160_PRO drivers then "DRIVER_0", "DRIVER_1", "DRIVER_2", "DRIVER_3", "DRIVER_4", "DRIVER_5", and "DRIVER_6" will all be configured for SPI mode.~~
|
||||
|
||||
~~So set the "DRIVER_7" for UART mode. By configuring the opposite mode for the empty driver socket you are ensuring that the empty driver socket will not interfear with the communication bus of the other 7 driver sockets.~~
|
||||
|
||||
@ -261,11 +261,11 @@ The Picture below went with the crossed out text, so please ignore it.
|
||||
|
||||
~~This "TXS0104EPWR" shifts the DRIVER7_CS signal line from 3.3VDC logic level to 5VDC logic level. Which is what we want for the LEDs data line for the stealthburner fan assembly.~~
|
||||
|
||||
~~You might be asking why do you not just use the Octopus Pro RGB header? Well you could. But since the Stealthburner uses Neopixels LEDs, I decided to use Neopixels through out the QUEEN build. Remember that is why I bought in a second 5V PSU. So to control the other lights with the Octopus Pro board I will need more than one Neopixel Data line. I just choose to use the DRIVER7_CS line for the stealthburner LEDs because when I am ready to do the other Neopixels I will use the RGB header or the DRIVER7_STEP or the DRIVER7_DIR lines.~~
|
||||
~~You might be asking why do you not just use the Octopus Pro RGB header? Well you could. But since the Stealthburner uses Neopixels LEDs, I decided to use Neopixels throughout the QUEEN build. Remember that is why I bought in a second 5V PSU. So to control the other lights with the Octopus Pro board I will need more than one Neopixel Data line. I just choose to use the DRIVER7_CS line for the stealthburner LEDs because when I am ready to do the other Neopixels I will use the RGB header or the DRIVER7_STEP or the DRIVER7_DIR lines.~~
|
||||
|
||||
Since I have learned more about NeoPixels I will be following [Adafruit's recommendations on how to hook up Neopixels](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/best-practices).
|
||||
|
||||
Like I said earlier, The "FS" connector comming from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board has one wire that needs to be connected up to the Octopus Pro board (the NeoPixel's Data line). As I already stated, I will be using a in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the RGB header's data output pin and the input to the first NeoPixel.
|
||||
Like I said earlier, The "FS" connector comming from the ERCF v.3 toolhead board has one wire that needs to be connected up to the Octopus Pro board (the NeoPixel's Data line). As I already stated, I will be using an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the RGB header's data output pin and the input to the first NeoPixel.
|
||||
|
||||
**Please**, **Please**, put the resistor in-line with the first NeoPixel on the data line before trying to hook up power to the NeoPixels. If you do not, you could permentaly damage the first NeoPixel and have to rewire the Stealthburner to fix the NeoPixel.
|
||||
|
||||
@ -281,11 +281,11 @@ Please remember to hook up the 5VDC line from the Meanwell RD-50A PSU to the fir
|
||||
|
||||
Note: You only need **one** 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the RGB header's data output pin and the first NeoPixel. So in my case since I have many NeoPixel LEDs I will do this only to the first NeoPixel that will be located in the bottom electronics case for the QUEEN build.
|
||||
|
||||
But for my Voron_LDO build, I will only be placing the Neopixels on the "Voron Stealthburner". In this case I will probably power the NeoPixels from the Octopus board. I will buy four (4) individual NeoPixel LEDs for my Voron Stealthburner (in fact I already have them). I will buy two extra in case I screw up on the soldering and ripe a pad off of one of the NeoPixels boards. I will place one of the "extra" Neopixels half way down my wiring harness to act as a repeater for the Stealthburner's first Neopixel. So I will place an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the (Octopus board) RGB header's data output pin and the "extra" Neopixel. Remember this in-line resitor must be placed closer to the Neopixel then the RBG header. Since I am **NOT using an independent PSU to power the NeoPixels for the my Voron_LDO build**, I **do not need to use** the large capacitor (500–1000 µF at 6.3 Volts or higher) across the + and – terminals of my PSU.
|
||||
But for my Voron_LDO build, I will only be placing the Neopixels on the "Voron Stealthburner". In this case I will probably power the NeoPixels from the Octopus board. I will buy four (4) individual NeoPixel LEDs for my Voron Stealthburner (in fact I already have them). I will buy two extra in case I screw up on the soldering and ripe a pad off of one of the NeoPixels boards. Furthermore, I will place one of the "extra" Neopixels halfway down my wiring harness to act as a repeater for the Stealthburner's first Neopixel. So I will place an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the (Octopus board) RGB header's data output pin and the "extra" Neopixel. Remember this in-line resitor must be placed closer to the Neopixel than the RBG header. Since I am **NOT using an independent PSU to power the NeoPixels for my Voron_LDO build**, I **do not need to use** the large capacitor (500–1000 µF at 6.3 Volts or higher) across the + and – terminals of my PSU.
|
||||
|
||||
I hope this procedure is clear. Again, please place an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the (Octopus board) RGB header's data output pin and the first Neopixel board. You will not damage anything by doing this and in fact you could save the Neopixel board from being damaged.
|
||||
|
||||
4. Now we need to connect the extruder motor up to the Octopus Pro. The LGX extruder motor will connected to the "E-STEP" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board which then connects to "MOTOR6" connector of the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
4. Now we need to connect the extruder motor up to the Octopus Pro. The LGX extruder motor will connect to the "E-STEP" connector of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board which then connects to "MOTOR6" connector of the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
|
||||
5. The "CT" or "Chamber Thermistor" line of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board will connect to the "T1" on the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
|
||||
@ -303,15 +303,15 @@ I hope this procedure is clear. Again, please place an in-line 300 to 500 Ohm r
|
||||
|
||||
12. The "GND" line of the ERCF v.3 toolhead board will connect to the "Voron 2.4 AC Wiring Diagram"'s "Common V- Ground" reference (the point where you attach all the V- terminal of each PSU you have in the Build).
|
||||
|
||||
So, thank you for letting me type and figure out how this all connects up. That is how you connect up the Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the Octopus Pro if you are using Stealthburner fan assembly on the LGX extruder with Neopixels, Klicky_Probe (XES), HEF, HE0, TH0, Chamber Thermistor(CT), PCF, HEF, LGX motor, 5VDC, 24VDC, GND, Analogue GND (AGND) and "Common V-" from all the PSUs (GND).
|
||||
So, thank you for letting me type and figure out how this all connects up. That is how you connect up the Hartk's ERCF v.3 toolhead board to the Octopus Pro if you are using Stealthburner fan assembly on the LGX extruder with Neopixels, Klicky_Probe (XES), HEF, HE0, TH0, Chamber Thermistor(CT), PCF, HEF, LGX motor, 5VDC, 24VDC, GND, Analogue GND (AGND) and "Common V-" from all the PSUs (GND).
|
||||
|
||||
Next we need to connect up all the motors and endstops:
|
||||
|
||||
13. The "X" line of the [Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop PCB board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-2-4-xy-microswitch-endstop-pcb) will connect to to the "STOP_0" on the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
13. The "X" line of the [Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop PCB board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-2-4-xy-microswitch-endstop-pcb) will connect to the "STOP_0" on the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
|
||||
14. The "Y" line of the [Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop PCB board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-2-4-xy-microswitch-endstop-pcb) will connect to to the "STOP_1" on the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
14. The "Y" line of the [Voron 2.4 XY Microswitch Endstop PCB board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-2-4-xy-microswitch-endstop-pcb) will connect to the "STOP_1" on the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
|
||||
15. The "HE1" line of the [Z Endstop PCB for Voron v2.4 board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/z-endstop-pcb-for-voron-v2-4) (on the LDO Kit they refer to this as the "Nozzle Probe" line) will connect to to the "STOP_2" on the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
15. The "HE1" line of the [Z Endstop PCB for Voron v2.4 board](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/z-endstop-pcb-for-voron-v2-4) (on the LDO Kit they refer to this as the "Nozzle Probe" line) will connect to the "STOP_2" on the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Motor cables: Please use a LED light to ensure that the pairs of wires for each motor coil are lying next to each other in the motor cable's connector. If the two adjacent wires do not turn on the LED light when you turn the shaft of the motor then you will need to find the appropriate pair of wires and ensure that they are adjacent to each other in the JST connector. What do I mean by two adjacent wires? Well the JST connector has 4 pins. Pick a starting point, call that "PIN 1" then the next pin adjacent to it in the JST connector is "PIN 2". Place an LED across "PIN 1" and "PIN 2". Turn the stepper motor shaft to see if the LED turns on while you turning the motor's shaft. If the LED turns on then "PIN 1" and "PIN 2" are a coil pair. Now check "PIN 3" and "PIN 4", just to ensure that the second motor coil is working properly. Place the LED across "PIN 3" and "PIN 4", does the LED turn on? Now that you have determined which pairs of wires make up the motor's coils. Place the coil pairs as follows: PIN1 and PIN2 are a coil pair, PIN3 and PIN4 are a coil pair.
|
||||
@ -332,13 +332,13 @@ Motor cables: Please use a LED light to ensure that the pairs of wires for each
|
||||
|
||||
23. "Filter/Exhaust Fan for the Nevermore Filter" get connected into "FAN3" connector on the Octopus Pro board.
|
||||
|
||||
Now the rest of the hook up is to take care of additional items I have added to this build via Mods: like the "FANS mod"; additional Neopixel LED lights for my side edge panel lighting; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Bottom Electronics case; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Litter Box mod; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Left and right side of TOP panel; additional Neopixel LED lights for the front and back side of the TOP panel; multiple SPST switches to control the Neopixels Lights; additional thermistor wires that are attached the cable chain; ADXL35 connections to the Raspberry pi; filament runout sensor; PT1000 thermistor wires or a PT100 4-wire sensor cable; endocope wires; a spare Hotend Thermistor wires; ethernet keystone connection; Fans for the Litter Box Mod; USB 2.0 & USB 3.0 Keystone connection; and the BTT's TFTpi50 screen hookup to the Raspberry pi. I believe that takes care of all the extra items.
|
||||
Now the rest of the hook-up is to take care of additional items I have added to this build via Mods: like the "FANS mod"; additional Neopixel LED lights for my side edge panel lighting; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Bottom Electronics case; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Litter Box mod; additional Neopixel LED lights for the Left and right side of TOP panel; additional Neopixel LED lights for the front and back side of the TOP panel; multiple SPST switches to control the Neopixels Lights; additional thermistor wires that are attached the cable chain; ADXL35 connections to the Raspberry Pi; filament runout sensor; PT1000 thermistor wires or a PT100 4-wire sensor cable; endocope wires; a spare Hotend Thermistor wires; ethernet keystone connection; Fans for the Litter Box Mod; USB 2.0 & USB 3.0 Keystone connection; and the BTT's TFTpi50 screen hookup to the Raspberry Pi. I believe that takes care of all the extra items.
|
||||
|
||||
I am tired for now and it looks like I will have to update my [wiring harness diagram](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Wiring_Harness_Diagram/Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.pdf) to reflect the changes to the Klicky probe connection and the Filament Sensor (for ERCF connection) to the Octopus Pro board. I apperently need to swap those two locations. I also need to change the LED hook up on the wiring harness diagram. I have switched from 24VDC LED lights to only using Neopixel lights (which are 5VDC, GND and a data line).
|
||||
I am tired, and it looks like I will have to update my [wiring harness diagram](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Wiring_Harness_Diagram/Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.pdf) to reflect the changes to the Klicky probe connection and the Filament Sensor (for ERCF connection) to the Octopus Pro board. Furthermore, I apperently need to swap those two locations. I also need to change the LED hook up on the wiring harness diagram. I have switched from 24VDC LED lights to only using Neopixel lights (which are 5VDC, GND and a data line).
|
||||
|
||||
1/13/2022: After looking into the Octopus V1.0/V1.1 and the Octopus Pro V1.0 board's schematic diagrams, I decided to look further into the RGB header of both boards.
|
||||
|
||||
From reading the the [SN74LVC1G125 chip data sheet on page 5](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/sn74lvc1g125.pdf), I decided some bench testing is needed to see what is going on with the SN74LVC1G125 voltage lines and how it is effecting the Octopus' ability to send data appropriatly to the first NeoPixel.
|
||||
From reading the [SN74LVC1G125 chip data sheet on page 5](https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/blob/main/Resources/sn74lvc1g125.pdf), I decided some bench testing is needed to see what is going on with the SN74LVC1G125 voltage lines and how it is effecting the Octopus' ability to send data appropriatly to the first NeoPixel.
|
||||
|
||||
Here is a picture of how I see the problem at this time:
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Reference in New Issue
Block a user